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NeilE · 23 August 2004, 07:05 PM

Hi There Romani;

While stretched sprue has its uses, I much prefer monofilament for a lot of rigging duties. In 1/72 scale, smoke coloured nylon thread (the non-stretchy one is fine and when a top coat is sprayed, takes on a colour tone relatively like that of actual rigging, thus meaning no additional colouration is necessary.

You can almost have rigging to scale with monofilament thread if you use some of the very fine fishing lines that are readily available.

The only problem with monofilament is that you can't replicate RFC flat ribbon flying wires, I believe there is a technique for those that the ancien sprue users like to use but you'd have to ask them about that.

Monofilament can be tightened if it goes slack with referred heat - from, say, a heated screwdriver or blade held close to the thread but don't touch the screwdriver to the thread or you'll be in trouble!

Also try a pin vice for your drilling duties for your rigging. Yes, it takes longer but doesn't mar the plastic and can mean less drill bit breakages too. I like to use a # 78 or #80 drill bit for most rigging holes.

Some modellers also use a piece of guitar string in their motor tool in place of a drill and say this is an effective replacement but I haven't tried that.

The good thing about monofilament is that it adds structurally strength to your model in a way that stretched sprue doesn't.

For applying superglue to the rigging holes to hold it in place, I either use a small pin, a piece of fine guage guitar string (more on this soon), or use the following tool - Take a standard sewing needle, cut the top of the eye off it and slightly spread the ensuing Y so, and then bed this into a handle of sprue, heated slightly so that the shaft of the needle fits into the sprue - secure with some super glue and voila! A handy super glue applicator that you can use again and again. Just dip it into a pool of superglue on glass (I use a cutdown jar bottom for the purpose) and then touch it to the part to be glued and capillerary action will flow the superglue from the applicator to the part. To clean off dried superglue from the applicator, just use a match or cigarette lighter and it will be as good as new!

I agree with Stephen about generally leaving the top of the top wing and the bottom of the bottom wing unpainted until after the rigging process is completely finished. Its so much easier and allows for a much better finish on these surfaces afterwards.

Also always keep on hand (a) Super glue accelerator (beware the fumes of this&#33

and (B) Some superglue remover! (stuck fingers to your forehead are embararrassing). If you are a nasty cigarette smoker (like I used to be), cigarette smoke is a mild super glue accellerant (but is probably just as nasty as the accellerant fumes&#33

.

In 1/48 scale, I have used the finest gauge electric guitar string - a high E - - for flying wires and main wires, lightly annealed to take the shine off it, measured with calipers and attached to appropriate pre drilled holes with white glue. The white glue shrinks to almost nothing and leaves a nice clean join - warning! This is a very time consuming technique but worth it!

Also look at using different media for different types of rigging (1n 1/48), monofilament for control wires, fine wire or guitar string for flying wires etc....

The best thing about monofilament is that it is relatively quick once you have done the pre drilling and pre attaching of the strands to one point. I can rig a typical 1/72 model in two hours after the prep work is done.

These are just a few ideas that may help make rigging a bit more enjoyable. Stick with it, its worth it!

Oh Yes.........hmmmm.... As you can see now, Modern modellers have moved from the Sprue Age to the Monofilament Age

B)

All the Best

Neil

23 August 2004, 07:05 PM	#10 (permalink)
NeilE Forum Ace Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Reservoir, Melbourne, Aust Posts: 949	Hi There Romani; While stretched sprue has its uses, I much prefer monofilament for a lot of rigging duties. In 1/72 scale, smoke coloured nylon thread (the non-stretchy one is fine and when a top coat is sprayed, takes on a colour tone relatively like that of actual rigging, thus meaning no additional colouration is necessary. You can almost have rigging to scale with monofilament thread if you use some of the very fine fishing lines that are readily available. The only problem with monofilament is that you can't replicate RFC flat ribbon flying wires, I believe there is a technique for those that the ancien sprue users like to use but you'd have to ask them about that. Monofilament can be tightened if it goes slack with referred heat - from, say, a heated screwdriver or blade held close to the thread but don't touch the screwdriver to the thread or you'll be in trouble! Also try a pin vice for your drilling duties for your rigging. Yes, it takes longer but doesn't mar the plastic and can mean less drill bit breakages too. I like to use a # 78 or #80 drill bit for most rigging holes. Some modellers also use a piece of guitar string in their motor tool in place of a drill and say this is an effective replacement but I haven't tried that. The good thing about monofilament is that it adds structurally strength to your model in a way that stretched sprue doesn't. For applying superglue to the rigging holes to hold it in place, I either use a small pin, a piece of fine guage guitar string (more on this soon), or use the following tool - Take a standard sewing needle, cut the top of the eye off it and slightly spread the ensuing Y so, and then bed this into a handle of sprue, heated slightly so that the shaft of the needle fits into the sprue - secure with some super glue and voila! A handy super glue applicator that you can use again and again. Just dip it into a pool of superglue on glass (I use a cutdown jar bottom for the purpose) and then touch it to the part to be glued and capillerary action will flow the superglue from the applicator to the part. To clean off dried superglue from the applicator, just use a match or cigarette lighter and it will be as good as new! I agree with Stephen about generally leaving the top of the top wing and the bottom of the bottom wing unpainted until after the rigging process is completely finished. Its so much easier and allows for a much better finish on these surfaces afterwards. Also always keep on hand (a) Super glue accelerator (beware the fumes of this&#33 and (B) Some superglue remover! (stuck fingers to your forehead are embararrassing). If you are a nasty cigarette smoker (like I used to be), cigarette smoke is a mild super glue accellerant (but is probably just as nasty as the accellerant fumes&#33. In 1/48 scale, I have used the finest gauge electric guitar string - a high E - - for flying wires and main wires, lightly annealed to take the shine off it, measured with calipers and attached to appropriate pre drilled holes with white glue. The white glue shrinks to almost nothing and leaves a nice clean join - warning! This is a very time consuming technique but worth it! Also look at using different media for different types of rigging (1n 1/48), monofilament for control wires, fine wire or guitar string for flying wires etc.... The best thing about monofilament is that it is relatively quick once you have done the pre drilling and pre attaching of the strands to one point. I can rig a typical 1/72 model in two hours after the prep work is done. These are just a few ideas that may help make rigging a bit more enjoyable. Stick with it, its worth it! Oh Yes.........hmmmm.... As you can see now, Modern modellers have moved from the Sprue Age to the Monofilament Age B) All the Best Neil __________________ "There's something wrong with our bloody ships today." - Adm. Beatty, Jutland, 1916.