More Lozenge problems

Gentlemen,
Is it me or are the Roden lozenge decals extremely flimsy. I have just attempted to put some on my Fokker D VIII and all they do is tear and break. Is it me or are they just very flimsy.
Your advice is required

[chip55]

Hello Martin
I have had the same *problem with my Roden Fokker DVI. They seem really dried out right out of the box.
I have read of a product in previous forum discussions called micro-set or something.

...broken YABB link...

This is one link I remember, but there were others that may have expired or got strafed in the aerodrome server crash a week ago.

maybe a complaint here: [email protected]

Be well
chip55

[chris_h]

I have yet to do the Fokker DVI, its in the production line awaiting the pilot, so all my advice could come back to haunt me especially with the fuselage decals. However, I have had success with Roden decals in the shape of the Hansa Brandenburg W29 and the Siemens Schuckert. But you are so right, they are very delicate.

I use the Microscale products, Micro Set and Micro Sol and find them invaluable. For what it is worth, this is my technique, it works for me and maybe you will glean something useful.

I first put the smallest drop of washing up liquid into the saucer of warm water to reduce the surface tension; I cut the decal from the sheet and trim it closely. Having immersed the decal into the water for a few moments, I use tweezers and take it out and spread the wet decal face down onto a smooth surface and put one or two small weights on the back, this stops the paper curling up. They only need to be there for a short while and the transfer will remain flat by itself, I then turn it back over and leave it face up. Sometimes it is necessary to add more water to the backing paper if it dries out, or it is a little slow in separating, when there is movement between the paper and the decal, I then paint the area on the model with some of the Setting solution (Micro SET).

Now the tricky part. Slide the decal off the backing paper about a quarter of an inch, let us assume you are doing a complete wing in one hit. I drape the leading edge of the transfer onto the leading edge of the model wing, then using a paintbrush (No 4), I slide the decal down the paper as I slide the paper backwards towards the trailing edge adding more Micro Set in-between as we go. Yes, you need three hands for this operation! This results in the decal being floated on the Set solution and it can still be moved at this point, but with careful positioning at the beginning the movement required should be minimal. The brush is useful for pushing the floating decals around. I have found that fingers tend to move one part of the decal leaving wrinkles and this is where it can tear so easily. If it has stuck in places, I use the brush and drip water or Set solution under the decal to re-float it.

When you are satisfied with the position, press down with soft kitchen paper to squeeze out the Sol solution and adhere the decal to the model. If necessary, a coat of Micro Sol is painted onto the decal, this will soften and shrink the decal firmly into place. Be warned, (1) don’t touch the decal after you have applied the Sol (2) don’t be alarmed as it goes all wrinkly, it will dry smooth and (3) Don’t get the two solutions mixed up!

Another point, some people will advice you to use gloss paint on the decal area, this they say improves the adhesion and makes it easier to position. It’s a matter of choice, I use a neutral colour from the decal as an undercoat, often grey for the lozenge decals and all my paints are matt acrylic.

Best wishes, Chris

The product name you are looking for to prevent decals from tearing is called "Micro-Decal" and it is still available from Micro-Scale. You simply hand-brush or air-brush the solution to the decal sheet, let it dry completely (at least an hour) and then use it just like a regular decal sheet. The decaling system as explained by Chris is excellent since I have been using the same system for years with good results. Wether you use a "Flat" or "glossy" undercoat for the decals is a matter of choice. I always gloss-coat the model before adding the decals and then use flat finish on the whole thing. I find that it gives the model a uniform finish to the paint and makes the decal film completely dissapear.

Micro-Sol, Micro-Set, Micro-Decal...how many of these products does Micro-Scale make?

Best regards,
Dean

[Michael]

Quite a few. They used to refer to it in their adverts as "The Micro-Scale System". As I recall you had to be careful with the Micro-Set - too much and cheap decals turned to mush.

As I recall you had to be careful with the Micro-Set - too much and cheap decals turned to mush.

Yes, that happened the one and only time I tried using the stuff. *I wonder if a coat of Micro-Decal beforehand would help with that?

Best regards,
Dean

Well chaps its good to know its not just me having problems. I have ordered all the micro decal system stuff. I hope that this is the answer>

Micro-Set should be used s-p-a-r-i-n-g-l-y on any decal or it will turn the decal to mush as you have found. As for the Micro-Decal-Film, I use it only on lozenge decals to prevent it from breaking up when covering wings or fuselage.