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| Flying Models Topics related to flying WWI aircraft models |
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2 January 2006, 03:27 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Still haveing problems uploading pics. I think it's an AOL problem. I will post some when I get it figured out.
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26 January 2006, 07:10 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Let's see if I finally got this right...
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26 January 2006, 07:15 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Guest
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Well I finally figured out how to get pics uploaded....actually I didn't really figure it out...It just finally worked !!!
These are the templates I've gotten cut out so far and a short tour of my oh so small shop .
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29 January 2006, 05:28 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Just another airplane nut
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Columbus, IN USA
Posts: 757
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Rent-A-Template
Scot,
Nice shop area you have. Cozy but functional. Good to see you making progress. Hey, are you your templates "available for rent" after?
Last edited by Lucky Dog; 29 January 2006 at 06:09 AM.
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29 January 2006, 06:35 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Mike.
I plan to go ahead and cut out at least four planes when I actually start cutting wood. I want plenty of spare parts!
I'm doing this mainly on the wings, I want to do a little modification and see if I can make them two piece wings and still look ok.
Besides, it's just as easy to cut out four as it is one the way I do it !
Scot
P.S. After seeing my shop I think you understand my interest in two piece wings!
P.P.S. Mike, after saying all that, what I meant to say is that it wouldn't take but a few minutes to cut out a set of templates for you. All of the work is in the first set...after that I can make duplicates fast and easy on the router table.
Last edited by Albatross D.III; 29 January 2006 at 10:01 AM.
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30 January 2006, 01:05 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Observer
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Carrollton, Texas
Posts: 49
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Making parts
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Albatross D.III
Mike.
P.P.S. Mike, after saying all that, what I meant to say is that it wouldn't take but a few minutes to cut out a set of templates for you. All of the work is in the first set...after that I can make duplicates fast and easy on the router table.
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What thickness are the ribs? i have often thought about using a router with a patern bit to cut parts but wasn't sure if there would be too much tear-out. i assume you have had good luck with this method? How thin is the balsa material that you have done? 3/32" or 1/8"?
Thanks,
Doug
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30 January 2006, 05:20 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Guest
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Doug,
I have cut out ribs as thin as 1/64" plywood and 1/16 " balsa. I have even cut thinner inlay stock for furniture this way.
The trick is a good router table with a zero clearance insert, the work peice firmly secured under the template and above all, "A VERY GOOD QUALITY ROUTER BIT". I can't stress the router bit part enough.
I prefer either Bosch or Porter Cable flush trim ball bearing bits, or laminate trimmer bits, they are super sharp and hold an edge forever as long as you keep them clean and lubricated.
I use alcohol to clean mine and spray them with an aerosol type teflon. This keeps pitch build up down and rust away, two of the biggest bit killers. And make sure you store them so that the edge dont get damaged. My brother just throws his bits in a drawer and wonders how the carbide chips so easily!
I have a tendancy to rant about this because my brother never buys bits...he borrows mine!!!!!
Scot
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31 January 2006, 12:07 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Just another airplane nut
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Columbus, IN USA
Posts: 757
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MMMMM.... Ribs....
Scot,
I would be intereseted in talking to you more about templates for the DIII. Please send me an Email. bealmearm@comcast.net
Are you sure you need to do a two piece wing? Heck...you've got that big window at the end of your shop.
Thanks
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1 February 2006, 11:25 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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Observer
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Carrollton, Texas
Posts: 49
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Albatross D.III
Doug,
I have cut out ribs as thin as 1/64" plywood and 1/16 " balsa. I have even cut thinner inlay stock for furniture this way.
The trick is a good router table with a zero clearance insert, the work peice firmly secured under the template and above all, "A VERY GOOD QUALITY ROUTER BIT". I can't stress the router bit part enough.
I prefer either Bosch or Porter Cable flush trim ball bearing bits, or laminate trimmer bits, they are super sharp and hold an edge forever as long as you keep them clean and lubricated.
I use alcohol to clean mine and spray them with an aerosol type teflon. This keeps pitch build up down and rust away, two of the biggest bit killers. And make sure you store them so that the edge dont get damaged. My brother just throws his bits in a drawer and wonders how the carbide chips so easily!
I have a tendancy to rant about this because my brother never buys bits...he borrows mine!!!!!
Scot
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Cool! So this is possible even with thin materials. Good to know. I figure if I am making parts I might as well make a few. I know what you mean about good bits. I tend to use only Whiteside bits and am careful with them.
Thanks for the info!
Doug
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14 February 2006, 03:43 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Guest
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Hello Albatross D.III,
How do you secure the wood to the templete? 2-sided carpet tape?
I just enlarged the Gary Allen Fokker D-VII to 1/3 scale, getting ready to cut templates!. Also do you use a band saw for cutting the Lexan templates?
Thanks for any information, By the way, I'm in Montgomery Alabama  .
Brian
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