The Aerodrome Home Page
Aces of WWI
Aircraft of WWI
Books and Film
The Aerodrome Forum
Sign the Guestbook
Help
Links to Other Sites
Medals and Decorations
The Aerodrome News
Search The Aerodrome
Today in History
The Aerodrome Forum

Go Back   The Aerodrome Forum > WWI Aviation > Models > Flying Models


Flying Models Topics related to flying WWI aircraft models

Learn how to remove ads


Welcome to The Aerodrome Forum, an online community where you can discuss WWI aviation with thousands of other members from around the world. To gain full access to the Forum you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:
  • Post messages and search the Forum

  • Privately communicate with other members

  • Participate in live chat sessions other members

  • View images by talented aviation artists in our Gallery

  • Buy, sell or trade items in our Classified Ads
All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

Closed Thread
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 23 May 2007, 10:51 AM   #31 (permalink)
Scout Pilot
 
jtisch's Avatar
Contributor
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Auburn, Washington
Posts: 483
 
Since my Briggs engine weighs over 5-1/2 lbs, I thought I had better make sure the firewall won't come off. I added some hardwood blocks behind the firewall and will "peg" the blocks from the sides with some dowel and then run some screws from the front of the firewall into the blocks.
Highslide JS
Sorry about the picture quality. My el cheapo camera doesn't take close up photos well.
__________________
WWI Aviation T-shirts
jtisch is offline  
Old 25 May 2007, 10:59 AM   #32 (permalink)
Scout Pilot
 
jtisch's Avatar
Contributor
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Auburn, Washington
Posts: 483
 
Here's another bad shot.
Highslide JS
All the blocks are glued in. Hopefully you can see where I made up some doublers out of lite ply and put them where the blocks attach to the sides. This will give a lot more glue area for the blocks. The alignment tube is in place and I just have to wait for my wood order to continue. I think the use of the alignment tube is a neat idea and can't wait to try it out.
__________________
WWI Aviation T-shirts
jtisch is offline  
Old 25 May 2007, 12:51 PM   #33 (permalink)
DJ
Scout Pilot
 
DJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 387
 
Sheet it on the sides and top, then remove the tube and cut the cross pieces out. I ran guides from the point where the control wires exit the fuselage to the former at the leading edge of the stab. Don,t forget to solder the control horn onto the rudder"tiller" before begining to sheet. I also ran control line bushings on the former at the rear of the cockpit. Then just pop in the fire wall and sheet the bottom. It takes about 15-20 hours to build the fuselage.
__________________
Regards,
David D Johnson
DJ is offline  
Old 2 June 2007, 11:48 AM   #34 (permalink)
Scout Pilot
 
jtisch's Avatar
Contributor
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Auburn, Washington
Posts: 483
 
DJ, Thanks for the tips and congrats on your win at the mint Julep!
I finally got my wood order and installed the stringers. You have to grind the grooved blocks in order to get the stringers in, but no big deal.Overall it went very smoothly. One thing I might do different if I were to do it over is to glue some 90 degree scrap balsa on the formers at the tube junction. This would make them somewhat self-aligning. I must have grabbed my alignment block a couple hundred times before I got everything glued in place. Time to start sheeting!
Highslide JS
__________________
WWI Aviation T-shirts
jtisch is offline  
Old 3 June 2007, 08:03 PM   #35 (permalink)
Forum Ace
 
Lyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Clearwater, FL
Posts: 649
 
J,
It's looking great, keep up the good work--
Lyle
__________________
Nemo mortalium omnibus horis sapit
Lyle is offline  
Old 4 June 2007, 07:53 PM   #36 (permalink)
Just another airplane nut
 
Lucky Dog's Avatar
Contributor
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Columbus, IN USA
Posts: 525
 
John,
Looking good!

What did you use for an alignment tube? PVC pipe?
__________________
Mike Bealmear
Highslide JS
www.bealmear.com/dawn_patrol
Lucky Dog is offline  
Old 5 June 2007, 01:40 PM   #37 (permalink)
Scout Pilot
 
jtisch's Avatar
Contributor
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Auburn, Washington
Posts: 483
 
Tsk,Tsk! Lucky Dog As previously mentioned in post
#6, the alignment tube is a metal tube I found at Lowe's in the organizer and shelving dept. The sheeting has started and I'll post a pic soon.

The more I think about it, the more I like Brumowski's 153.52 with the million swirls.It will be a chore to paint all of them, but what the heck,it is rather unique. Here it is.
Highslide JS
__________________
WWI Aviation T-shirts

Last edited by jtisch; 5 June 2007 at 01:51 PM. Reason: forgot something
jtisch is offline  
Old 8 June 2007, 11:35 AM   #38 (permalink)
Two-seater Pilot
 
Prop Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 201
 
Wow J, what can I say? I stand in Awe. Well, I am actually sitting but I am doing it in Awe. You leave me in the dust. My Tripe is still in the bones and you have finished your DVII and started your Albatros. It looks great, good luck with the paint scheme. Drop me a line with info on your DVII flight.

David
__________________
It's not the going up part that bothers me.....its the coming down part.
Prop Nut is offline  
Old 8 June 2007, 06:23 PM   #39 (permalink)
Scout Pilot
 
jtisch's Avatar
Contributor
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Auburn, Washington
Posts: 483
 
Prop nut, I am really good at starting projects.Finishing them is another story! I still have my GTM DRI that's going on over four years now. Anyone like welding aluminum?
Things are going rather smoothly on the DIII for me so far. I got it sheeted enough to take out the alignment tube and added the star or "+" in the rear. I know it's not fully sheeted yet but I am surprised at how light it is. I am now considering on whether to make the tail as shown or whether to "kick it up a notch" and make a tail with scale hinges and a slightly thicker section at the roots.I may be a glutton for punishment. Here is the pic of the day.
Highslide JS
__________________
WWI Aviation T-shirts
jtisch is offline  
Old 8 June 2007, 06:31 PM   #40 (permalink)
Scout Pilot
 
Bookmaker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Marianna, Fl
Posts: 357
 
I'm not sure what type of amuninum welding you need, but have you ever tried Alumiweld? It'd a relatively low temp system that will "weld" aluminum, and most non ferrous metals.

I saw it for the first time down at TOP GUN several years ago. The guy had me filling split in aluminum cans. My dad has welded a gas tank for his swamp buggy. I takes a little practice and you must follow a few instructions, but it really works and is very strong.

My last use was filling in drill hole errore in my GTM aluiminum cowl.

Dale

Dale
__________________
Dale Cavin, Marianna, FL
Bookmaker is offline  
Closed Thread

Bookmarks

Tags
albatros diii




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:59 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.2
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.1.0
Copyright ©1997 - 2008 The Aerodrome