DJ's 1/4 scale Albatros DIII

jtisch · 13 May 2007, 10:12 AM

I really shouldn't start a new project, but I did anyway. I thought I would frame up DJ's DIII fuselage so I could make sure which engine I could fit in.

Once it is framed, though, I was wondering about the fuse skins. If I go with balsa skins as per the plans, how can I make them look like ply skins and how can I make them tough enough to hold up to ordinary handling without denting the balsa?

BTW, the laser cut parts are very nice!

J

Lyle · 13 May 2007, 11:52 AM

J,
I have this kit too! I believe in lots of unfinished models in the shop, it makes for good decoration, so more power to you. On all of DJ's Albatros models, I think he just stains the balsa and dopes it with butyrate. The models I've seen of his the wood didn't have dings in it.

Now, I did see at Lowe's a nifty self-adhesive veneer that could be used to simulate the panels on an Albatros...the colors looked very good. They even had a veneer that would be dark enough for a Siemens Schuckert fighter. The problem here is added weight--DJ's models come out being pretty light.

Hope you post some pics soon!
Lyle

DJ · 14 May 2007, 07:03 AM

Hi, I have found the balsa to be very durable. My 1/4 scale had over 250 flights when I sold it. I finish the balsa with Min wax stain and their Polysrylic clear. It is fuel proof and quite durable. My friend Paul Savastano glassed his after staining with 1/2 oz cloth and it added very little weight. I find working with the 1/64 ply to be a nightmare! As to engine everyone I know who has built on uses the US41. It does a nice job and with the rear exhaust, you don't need to hack the cowling all up. Hope this helps. J, just out of curiosity, who are you and where did you get hold of one? Did I sell it to you? I feel like I'm getting senile. (ha ha I hope!)

DJ

jtisch · 14 May 2007, 10:01 AM

DJ, you are not going senile! I bought the plans and laser cut parts from another forumite and not directly from you. Thanks for the info on your finish. It looks like I have a number of options in this area.Hangar rash is a concern for me due to the size of my work area. I would like to put another Briggs 4-cycle I have in it but I also have a Cheetah 42, a Poulan 33cc conversion and an Enya v-twin in the shop.
One thing I am going to do different is to make this an Oeffag-built 153 series Albatros DIII so I don't have to worry about a spinner. Color scheme will depend on how the fuse skins turn out!

Lyle, I'll post some pics later.Right now I am still "prepping" all the parts and so there isn't much to see.

J

DJ · 14 May 2007, 11:11 AM

There is a very cool scheme with a heart with an arrow through it in that series or go for the Austrian ace of aces with a red airplane with cool skull and cross bones!

jtisch · 14 May 2007, 01:36 PM

Lyle, L-dog,
I forgot to mention about the alignment tube. The holes in the fuse formers are 3/4" OD,at least on mine, and copper plumbing is 3/4" ID. I found some 3/4" OD pipe at Lowe's in the organizer and shelving section.

DJ, Yeah, one of Brumowski's AC is definitely in the running. My only concern is that I am color-blind and all red planes turn all gray for me on cloudy days.

J

Bookmaker · 14 May 2007, 02:03 PM

From several decades of working with model airplanes, let me share my experience. Uncovered balsa skins (especially when bent) have a nasty habit of splitting with the grain. I don't know if it's Florida humidity, heat or what, but I have seen it numerous times. I am personally very reluctant to finish balsa without some form of cover, be it silkspan, silk, fiberglas, etc. Even Monocote covered balsa sheet will split.

I am currently in the process of finishing a Balsa USA Fokker D VIII that uses balsa for the wing cover. My plan is to glass it with light weight glass cloth stuck down with thinned epoxy, then primer to fill the weave. Then I plan to use the furniture "antiquing" method to fake plywood grain before the final staining finish. I think this would be a possibility on the Albatros fuse as well.

Dale

14 May 2007, 02:27 PM

This photo shows my 1/6th stand off scale Albatross DIII built in the mid 1980s. I used balsa sheeting, strips and blocks to cover the fuse. I sliced some panel lines and others are actual panels of balsa. The fuse was covered with silkspan and doped so the wood is pretty much natural. I did add some orange dope to clear to darken some of the panels. I also added some grain & knot texture by drawing it on. For the most part, I thought the color and natural balsa looked good enough. This color scheme has been somewhat disproved. There was a wavy lined DIII in Jasta 11; but, I guess it did not have the full red nose. The scheme was taken from the Squadron Signals Albatross book, which at the time was the only WW1 book available. The wings were covered with Silkspun Coverite, which I wish was still available!

DJ · 15 May 2007, 08:27 AM

Bookmaker, the trick is to apply the finish both inside and out. Otherwise you do get differential expansion due to humidity and will get splits eventually. My SSW is now about 7-8 years old and still looks in great shape and has actually been rained on and in twice (at a contest when they tell you to fly you fly). The only damage I have got is smacking my DVa into a door frame really hard. I was able to get most of that out with a real tiny syringe and injecting water into the dent. hope this helps.

DJ

Bookmaker · 15 May 2007, 08:54 AM

Thanks for the feedback David. Although, I can't deny your success, it still spooks me to leave balsa "open".

Was that your 1/3 scale Albatross at TG?

Dale