GTM Fokker DRI 1/4 scale - Page 3

jtisch · 2 July 2008, 04:27 PM

Lyle,I'm going for Fritz's brother,Bruno's DRI.Very similar but with more color on the top wing.Nice visible color scheme.Thanks for the "props"

by the way.

John Fitz,remember that when put into an AC the engine cooling is better than in a weed whacker.I used the stock oil at first but it seemed to take a long time to "warm up".Things improved by going with the the synthetic multi-weight.Your Gas/Glow conversion has gotten me off my rear and I am going to try increasing the compression and still run gas.Let's see what happens.

J

jtisch · 2 July 2008, 05:02 PM

Sorry,couldn't resist adding this photo after today's painting.Still have to do the black inside the top wing and re-do the top wing crosses and re-touch the stab, but it is lookin' not shabby,if I do say so myself.That streaking does make a mighty nice camouflage after all!

JohnFitz · 2 July 2008, 10:30 PM

Very cool J! It will be interesting to see if you are able to flip start yours on straight gas. You will be using the stock ignition? Mine flip starts really easy on the gas/glow. Once it is primed she pops twice and starts on the third flip and once run will restart on the first flip. I'll probably go the synthetic oil route as well.

Prop Nut · 2 July 2008, 10:52 PM

John, I use the synthetic 5w30, according to the manual with the new engine (for both the 34cc and the 40cc) the synthetic covers the entire range of climates and is reccommended.

J-T, that Tripe looks great. Another fine production from your shop.

David

yes, still here in Germany.

jtisch · 2 July 2008, 11:30 PM

David!!!
Great to hear from you!How are things going in Germany?

Things are going along good on the DRI and I am pretty sure it will be airborne this summer.Once I start painting the big parts I usually don't give up until it's ready to go.

Still haven't gotten the holes drilled in the axle,though.I bought a "cobalt" drill at the local hardware store and got maybe half way through before I broke it.I will go to the "good" hardware store where I am pretty sure they will have what I need.

JohnFitz · 3 July 2008, 05:37 AM

J, Did you use any "cutting" oil on the bit? They do last longer that way. Gutten morgan heir Propnut!

jtisch · 4 July 2008, 10:29 AM

I've given up on drilling those holes.Cobalt,carbide and cutting oil weren't enough.What's irritating is that it should have taken me 20 minutes if I had done it at the correct time.I have another idea I am going to try.

I also realized that I painted the rear black stripe on the top wing too far forward,

.I should have used the ailerons as a reference for placing that stripe but for some reason I used the crosses and it came out wrong.I'll have to think about what to do about it.
J

jtisch · 4 July 2008, 01:56 PM

Here is what I am talking about.

The front of the rear black stripe should be behind the LE of the aileron counterbalance but mine is slightly ahead.I am tempted to just leave it,at least for now.The rudder has the cross done,the fuselage cross is ready for final painting and the top wing obviously needs to be changed over.It's been raining the past few days and today is muggy so no painting.Gotta go make some fried onions for the picnic,Happy 4th of July to all my fellow Yanks!!

J

jtisch · 8 July 2008, 10:36 AM

Today is nice so maybe I can do some more painting,but it has been rainy/humid the past few days so I did the bottom paneling.I used G10 sheet instead of the supplied plywood and also added a hinge(I bought from Nelson) so the access panel will swing open and I can get to the four servos mounted there.

Bookmaker · 8 July 2008, 11:51 AM

J, another option on the LG axle. Someone may have mentioned this already. What about cutting the steel axle just a little shorter with a dremel cut off wheel and sleeve the steel axle with brass tube leaving it about 1/4" long so you can get the cotter pin in the brass end? You'll have to drill out the wheels a little, but that should be a minor issue.