GTM Fokker DRI 1/4 scale

jtisch · 25 June 2008, 06:37 PM

Well,this is a carry over from the DIII thread but since finishing the cabanes and ailerons I have been making good progress.I have the top wing covered and somewhat painted and I just finished covering and doping the fuselage,so all the covering is done.Things are drying now so no pics for the time being.

BTW,I may have painted myself into a bit of a corner so I am asking for your help.Is there a way to drill through (or perhaps thread with a die) 1/4" music wire WITHOUT heating it up?I left my axle too long and cannot easily remove it.

J

Lyle · 26 June 2008, 04:03 AM

J.,
Sounds like you are drilling for a cotter pin. You could probably do it with a super sharp drill, lots of oil, and low RPMs on your drill. Getting it started is naturally going to be the tough part. Just my two cents worth.
Lyle

Bookmaker · 26 June 2008, 04:04 AM

Try a high speed carbide drill bit. The axle metal is hard, but not so hard it can't be drilled. You may need to make a sleeve to fit over the axle that has a hole to use as a drill jig. Otherwise, it will be hard to get the bit started.

jtisch · 26 June 2008, 05:12 AM

Thanks for the advice!I think I'll get some new high quality bits and give it a go.

Bookmaker · 26 June 2008, 05:56 AM

Don't forget to make a drilling jig. Otherwise, you will never get it started in the round axle. A piece of mild steel would be best. Drill one hole to fit snug on the axle, then a cross hole the size you plan to drill through the axle.

Don't skimp on the bit, it has to be a really hard.

JohnFitz · 26 June 2008, 06:12 PM

J, make a small flat spot with a Dremel and cutting disc. Just drag the disc lightly across the axle where you will drill the hole. This makes it easier to keep the bit from walking. I am guessing you will slide a piece of brass tubing over it.

Doc Modeler · 27 June 2008, 01:34 AM

If a hollow tube looking axle end is permitted use a die grinder with a cut off wheel to shorten the axle and solder on a brass tube with the cotter pin hole already drilled in it. Use Stay Brite type solder and enlarge the hole slightly in the hub to fit the brass "bearing". Doc.

JohnFitz · 27 June 2008, 03:08 AM

J, this is what you want to end up with I think. Brass tube is slid over axle and hole drilled through both. Cotter pin holds washer and wheel in place. In my case the axle is a solid alum. rod so I CA'd the brass tube on but it fit really tight so it's not going anywhere.

jtisch · 27 June 2008, 07:15 AM

John Fitz,that is exactly what I am going to do.I've done the same on previous models but then I remembered to drill the holes beforehand and I could heat up the wire.One of the pitfalls of switching projects all the time,I guess,and I just plain forgot about it.

I weighed all the parts and it's at 14.5 lbs with the top cowl panels and paint yet to be added.I don't know,maybe 16 lbs all-up?

Thanks again to all.

JohnFitz · 27 June 2008, 07:25 AM

J, So are you putting a 4-stroke in it? Got mine turning a 22x8 MA Schimitar with authority.