1/4 Fokker D.VII Build

Lyle · 12 October 2009, 07:31 PM

Well, I've decided to join the ranks again and build my D.VII all over again. I bought the Gary Allen plans from Model Airplane News some time ago and got a semi-kit from Lazer Works Engraving and Design; the parts came in last week. Very good wood and some nice innovations not on the plans, but which should make building easier. Power will be the G-38 unless someone gives me a free engine that's the right size.

This is the color scheme I want to do:

This is Fok D.7 (OAW) 2052/18 and the pilot is

Karl Thom. He was the hotshot ace of Jasta 21. It's an early D.VII, so 4-color lozenge with blue ribtapes on the wings, black and white decoration on the fuse; the tailplane and rear fuse is black. The nose is also black. Landing gear will be in stock OAW camouflage of mauve and green. There will be two Ts on the top wing inboard of the crosses as well as on the underside of the bottom wing.

I have always liked this scheme but did Buchner's late OAW version instead.

More photos soon! As soon as I get a new cable for my camera...

Haven't really started construction except to mark out on the 1/8" liteply rudder and elevator where the balsa edges go. This is one of those things about this kit...the tail surfaces come cut out already, which is a bit strange. However I think it should come out weighing about as much as building it like the stock model. Anyone else have experience dealing with this company?

Bookmaker · 13 October 2009, 03:13 PM

Lyle, nice project. Are you going to use GTM fabric, or some other method for the "lozenge" fabric?

Dale

Lyle · 13 October 2009, 06:39 PM

Dale,
I'm fairly certain I'm going to be painting my lozenge again. I bought some color chips about ten years ago from a very good source that were matched to Methuen references on the lozenge, but since I had already painted the fabric for my version of Buchner's "lion", they went on the shelf. Now, I feel the need to use these references. I got them long before GTM started offering fabric.

I like Glenn's 4-color fabric, it has the right feel to it and the appearance is good. I know it's a bit tough to get nice and snug but the results are worth it. Lots and lots of dope. I guess the high shrink dope would be the nitrate first, and then butyrate. You can put butyrate over nitrate but not the other way around. I have three panels (two topside, one underside) that I was going to use on my E.V. Need some lozenge?

Lyle · 13 October 2009, 06:51 PM

This is what I got in the box for the flying surfaces. 1/8" liteply. At first I thought, I've been cheated with crummy useless pieces to make it look like I'm getting more for my money but then I thought about it and figured that it'd be probably faster to put 1/8" balsa on both sides and build up the surfaces. The leading edge on the elevator and rudder would have to be very hard balsa. I'm thinking it'd be easy to get a reasonable facsimile of the welded tailsurfaces of the original. You can see some of my pencil lines where the pieces will go.

I believe a number of builders go this route, but with thin balsa wood for the center portion. Ideas??

Bookmaker · 13 October 2009, 07:07 PM

Yes, I'll take the fabric off your hands. I am sending a PM.

You might consider keeping the edges to about 1/4" thick total and make the ribs to an airfoil type shape keeping more to the actual profile of the full scale. Maybe add a perimeter of harder 1/16" balsa top and bottom.

If I remember correctly, the tail surfaces on the plans are just flat, which is easier to build, but not scale.

jtisch · 13 October 2009, 07:30 PM

If my thread on the aeroforum is still around, you may find that making a tail with a scale profile is not that hard, I think you could use the pieces you have.

J

Lyle · 13 October 2009, 07:59 PM

Dale,
Will see what I can do with that idea. The original plans showed 3/8" balsa sheet for the elevator, but I did plane it down to a scale thickness on the edge. Thin is naturally better and as J said, can be done to at least simulate scale thickness. True scale dimensions call for a 3/32" measurement. Builders do it good with the Mick Reeves Sopwith kits.

Here are the ribs showing the interesting tab for building the wing inverted. This should simplify things. Also the sawtooth LE just fell out of the sheet. You can see the end where you join it to the next leading edge sheeting with CA. All the hard stuff is done! The balsa is really good, no more die-crunch for me.

Lyle · 15 October 2009, 12:07 PM

Today I jumped in and started gluing wood onto the tail surfaces. Will post photos of the parts when they're done. I'm probably adding a thin perimeter of 1/16" wood on the edge to give some purchase for the Koverall. The liteply just doesn't have much on the edge to give any gluing surface. A bit of sanding and it should be quite scale when all is said and done.

JohnFitz · 15 October 2009, 01:58 PM

Go Lyle go! Glad to see ya back at it.

Lyle · 2 December 2009, 06:07 AM

Well, my building area has been occupied with other stuff (as usual, it's a great storage space) so I haven't been building much.

The tail surfaces are done, now to hinge them and cover. I'm planning on using some of those Robart hinge points, has anyone had experience with these?

Here is a sample of my lozenge--the blue is way, way too light. Also done very roughly with q-tips dipped in paint! Desperation is the mother of invention, especially at midnight. Just a color study, the final results will be stencils and airbrush.