Jacobs 450/17

[pmirl]

I have a Revell 1/28 scale triplane that I want to make into 450/17. Being new at models, what do you guys suggest I do to make it accurate? I already picked up a set of Copper State (?) decals from E-Bay for 450/17. I have a 1/28 scale Sopwith Camel for parts, thus I have the right engine and prop. What else can I do to make it more realistic?

Thanks,


Paul

[davecww1]

Hi Paul,
Copper State also sells a line of detail parts. You will probably want to get the 1/28 scale sets for the Dr.1 photoetched set (includes mostly interior detail parts; German instrument set (includes photoetched bezels, compass, and film gauges; and the Spandau guns - includes 2 resin guns with phitoetched jackets & sights. They also sell hand carved wooden props, and photoetched prop bosses and nuts & bolts for a highly detailed prop installation.
Their website is at:

http://www.amug.org/~copperst/

Dave

[StephenLawson]

Greetings pmirl; While I have a large interest in 450/17 for the construction side of things recently I was asked to build the same kit (1/27 Revell Fokker Dr.I) in the colours of 413/17 for another enthusiast.

While I had my own notes I find that its always good to get input from great modelers. When it come to this kit I could think of only one person. Mr. Ed Boll (known as drome member 'drIace&#39 Since he was kind enough to share some thoughts with me I thought I would share them with you here.

'...Generally you'll need 2 right hand type ailerons for #'s below 144/17 and two lefts for above that #, but be sure to check pics. ( if you have just one kit, easiest is sand the left , if the later #s (for 450/17) then use plastic card to build up the right) The interior needs to be sanded off and a new one built up with the components on the proper sides (throttle on left etc) Sand off the "wicker pattern" from the seat, as they were alum. , add a blanking section of the fabric behind the seat as there was one there( so you cannot see anything to the rear of the seat inside the fuselage) and the flat cowl lip needs to be extended about 1/8 " and bent under a bit. Thin down the outer struts, remove the "saw tooth" engraving from the underside of the 3 wings; that is really all that needs to be done as far as "corrections". she actually is a great dame despite her age.

...Depending on how much time you want to spend, you can shave off the molded push rods, recut the cylinders all round, redefine the rocker mechanism, add spark plug wires, new rods , carburator for the engine , intake tubes, photo etch cooling barrels for MG's, add throttle linkage & gun triggers to control column, aileron, elevator, & rudder wires, seat belts, carve a prop ( the kit is too flat) add an "engine turned" alum firewall etc. etc. Like anything in this hobby you can take it as far as you want...

Another fine modler Marlon Schultz (intrepid) did one theat is on display at the WWI modelers page. Good luck

[Rob_Owens]

See also, NICE build by Martin Gastel at www.largescaleplanes.com Click on "Articles" then, "The Golden Age." It helped me get the cowl right, but my interior isn't NEARLY as well-done as his! Hth, Rob