Applying Lozenge decals

[Pmacko]

Hi Everyone,

I am using after market lozenge decals for the first time today. I'm having a little trouble getting the trailing edges and wingtips to look good. Any tips? Can anyone run through their procedure for doing these decals or point me in the right direction? Also, how do you deal with the wing tips?

There was an article in Finescale Modeler a little while ago about this subject but when he starts to describe dealing with the edges he says "I'll discuss that in the next step" and then he never does. Good article otherwise. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

[Barker]

Hi Paul -

everybody may have something a little different but here's what works at this address:

Get the sharpest blade you have - I use both a fresh single edge razor and a #11 - let the cals set a bit, but not crisp - and then carefully shave each and every overlap.

If you set the edge accurately at the leading edge, this works fine.

Each tape you'll put down is similarly handled.

The wing tips are another matter and a decal softening/setting solution can be a real asset. Almost mandatory. The more complex the curvatures of the wing tip, the more you'll want this.

You can always shave your loz cal to fit, after the fact.

I do the underside first and the top side second. Usually.
Once you have a bit of experience, it's just another repetive motion kind of labor.
Put one some tunes or a movie you listen to as much as watch or what have and go at it.

When the wing's covered, you're done.
B)

You can also mix mini batches of touchup paint for goofs.

There are several ways of doing this and I suppose that each modeler has his particular method of applying lozenges, so I will only describe my method - no doubt other modelers will "chip in".

1 - spray the wings a gloss light gray - decals adhere better to a glossy
surface while the light gray color has the least effect on the colors of
lozenges
2 - before dipping the decal in water, cut it to the appropriate lenght
leaving about 1/8 of an inch of overhang
3 - start at the leading edge of the wing (obviously) and overlap the
trailing edge of the wing slightly to the underside of the wing
4 - let the decal dry a couple of hours and using a straight metal
ruler and razor blade, slize the excess decal off from the bottom wing.
It is important that you let the decal dry thorougly before doing this (a
couple of hours) otherwise the decal will tear. You can use Micro-Set to
soften the excess decal and lift it with a sharp X-Acto knife. I never do
a whole wing in one shot - I just lay down 2 or3 rows of lozenges using
the above procedure and continue the next night
5 - for scalloped trailing edges of wings, leave a little bit more of overhang
(about 3/16 of an inch) and slice the decal vertically between the
scallops so that the decal conforms to the curve. Again, cut the excess
off from underneath with a razor blade
6 - curved wing tips are done the same as #5- just use enough overlap to
cover the tip to the underside,slice it vertically with a razor blade at
several points on the curve. You may have to use Micro-Sol to make the
decal curve, but it will curve eventually.

The above procedure may sound long and tedious, but its not really - just a little bit of work! After a couple of models you will have the procedure down pat!

[StephenLawson]

Here's what I do. First I use the best. Eagle Strike. Then for corners and tips its like the others mention but, for real problem areas (after I have cleaned up the damaged area and added a coat of gloss that has dried.) I cut another matching section of the lozenge and put the patch over the damaged area If you have matched the lozenge piece no-one will ever know the repair is there.