Basics, basics, basics.....

[StephenLawson]

Rigging Most modelers want to know, what is the tried and true method to be successful with a single or multi-wing kit. If your going to invest in a model that costs as much as current kits do, your going to want to avoid pitfalls that will make your kit unattractive after its completed. Rigging these early bird type aircraft models is not as difficult as it may seem, but to do it right it is a little time consuming. The choices are easy. You can use either monofilament or fine wire sections. It depends on how long your strand runs are going to be. The best choice in 1/48 scale and smaller for strand lengths over 1.5 inches is monofilament. These come in various thickness’ and can be purchased in department store sewing centers (smoke coloured invisible thread) or in the fishing /sports department. For 1/48 scale and smaller scale 5-8 mil is good. For 1/32 and larger start with 5-6 lbs test fishing line. You will need an Optivisor type magnifier, lots of ‘new’ #11 blades for your razor knife and various small drill bits (lots of .080 and a couple of .069 gauge) for your motor tool. This method can be used on vacuformed plastic, injection molded plastic and resin kits. Though with vacuforms and some resins its up to you to add the right length of strut material.

First of all you should plot all the rigging lines and strut locator holes you will need to work with. Planning ahead using references and plan views will ensure your success. Pre-drill all pilot holes for each end of the struts and the rigging wires. Don’t be afraid to take notes. There should be two holes for each strand and each strut. First drill the strut locator holes and note that sometimes a strut may share the same hole as another intersecting strut. For instance the Nieuport 11 or 17 or the Albatros D.III- Va types. Then drill the rigging holes noting that lines will sometimes share the same anchor hole as well. Dividing the aircraft down the top plan centerline, do one side of the aircraft wings at a time. Complete the pilot’s left side of the aircraft then do the pilot’s right side. I don’t advocate using one long continuos run of monofilament to make several runs (A to B to C to D...) For me its one strand for one run (A to B, C to D and etc.) For the rigging use an .80 gauge (the smallest possible) drill bit in a motor tool, drill straight through the adjacent fuselage or wing location next to the strut sockets at the appropriate angle. These pilot holes should follow the entry angle of the specific rigging strand into the wing area adjacent to the strut locator holes. Going from point A to point B it should be a straight line. Note also that one hole can possibly hold upto 5 strands of 5-8 mil I don’t advocate drilling into any plastic or resin strut as this only serves to weaken it. As of this writing there is a company called two Bobs Buckles that manufactures 1/72 & 1/48 scale turnbuckles. These could be used to glue into your rigging pilot holes and simply thread your rigging material through these items and secure For this writing I will stick with the standard rigging method. Most real aircraft employed flange plates on the strut end caps to attach rigging lines..

[bobs_buckles]

Hello all,

I try not to go over the top when building a model. I'm not one for making sure everything is lined up to the nearest mm. If it looks ok, then I'm happy. I will not detail parts that are never seen...Why bother!
I love what I do and the little time I can devote to modelling is highly valued. Never lose sight of the enjoyment modelling can bring to you. If you do, then you will have more models in boxes than models on shelves.

Happy builds!!!

Bob of buckle fame

[StephenLawson]

Absolutely...If you aren't having fun doing it, do something fun! Model On!

[StephenLawson]

Appearance It is just a model, until the builder begins to pour their talents into the kit’s construction. What your asking yourself here is, can I do better? When your finished with a build does it look like a dime store toy? Again look at some of your past works and ask your self, what about this is out of proportion? What details are too large to be believable? Does this resemble the original full sized machine? Remember that even a good photograph image only gives the viewer a general impression of the original machine from one vantage point. What you want to do is create a striking 3 dimensional image that compels the viewer to enjoy the work you have done.

When you visit PeterL's website you can see how he two 3 toylike kits of the Sop. Camel from SMER and turned them into real gems hardly resembling the poor versions they began as.

[stringbags4ever2]

There seems to be a very fine line that modelers dance on when they build..... the one that has fun on one side and the other side that can lead to burnout and AMS. I think we can all agree that we'd like to be better each time we build, and kudos to Mr. Stephen Lawson, PeterL, et. al. for showing banana boaters like me the way...... B)

[StephenLawson]

We all begin as banana boaters...and before my first cup o coffee in the AM I'm still singing '...Cume mista tallyman, tally me bananas - daylight cume and me wan go home...' everybody sing!!!

J Reid....I love those 1/18 cars. I have about 50 I got mostly at discount at McFrugals. A car for 10 USD. And a display case for 3 USD.


Stephen L. Great info on rigging. But you forgot cat whiskers. Very strong, flexible....but you migth have to wait weeks to get enough for the job.

[JohnReid]

Jeez topgun, where is McFrugals? I pay a lot more than that for mine.I like the old classics like the Dueses,Packards,Auburns etc..although I do dabble in the odd Jag XKE or Corvette. I find building airplanes and collecting cars a nice mix.Some of those models are absolutly amazing for the price when you consider the time involved in making them yourself.It is just not worth it .I think it is the biggest bargain in collecting today.Cheers John.

[Romani]

Help!! I need airbrush help!!

I'm desperate.. I have had a Revell airbrush for several years but I never have been able to make use of it. First my compressor was too powerful, now it has a pressure regulator and now the problem is fixed. One friend reportedly used it and had no problem, so I'm quite sure that is not fouled in the inside. Been very thorough in cleaning it everytime I used it.

Now everytime I used it I got stoppages, or the paint air mix never worked... now I think the problem is the paint, I use Tamiya paints, and they have the annoying tendency to form clots. I use thinner and shake them, but to no avail, a clot always sneak up the tube and clogs the brush.

I am told that paint has a shelf life.. well, duh! the cans of paint that are in store have been sitting there for ages.

Maybe the problem is Tamiya paints are not good for airbrush... I have considered using other acryllics that are truly water based (Tamiya uses alcohol as solvent) or maybe I should use Humbrol paints.

I really don't know what to do.. everytime I use the airbrush I make a mess, get my hands all dirty and never be able to get a satisfying jet of paint from the damn thing. Maybe the plastic tube that goes into the pain is too long and it sticks to the bottom of the paint can sucking in the heavy particles, maybe the brush works fine but the hook up can is clogged and I have no spares (where can I find them?)

Perhaps I should junk the damn thing and use a spray can instead.

Any advice?

[PeterL]

Originally posted by Romani@Sep 16 2004, 07:22 PM
[b]

...Maybe the problem is Tamiya paints are not good for airbrush...

I have heard it said. Similar problems spraying acrylics sent me scurrying back to oil based paints in short order. Not that I use an airbrush much, the last time must have been more than two years ago.