










|
| Models Topics related to WWI aircraft models |
Welcome to The Aerodrome Forum, an online community where you can discuss WWI aviation with thousands of other members from around the world. To gain full access to the Forum you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:
- Post messages and search the Forum
- Privately communicate with other members
- Participate in live chat sessions other members
- View images by talented aviation artists in our Gallery
- Buy, sell or trade items in our Classified Ads
All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
|
23 July 2007, 07:20 AM
|
#2271 (permalink)
|
|
Forum Ace of Aces
Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 4,835
|
After checking my references most of the engine parts that you see here,except for the copper induction pipes,can be used as is.The lacquer seems to have given them just the color and finish of the real engine.Using just a little pastel should be enough for the weathering.(see Mark Miller's Clerget 130hp engine reference) 
|
|
|
23 July 2007, 04:31 PM
|
#2272 (permalink)
|
|
Forum Ace of Aces
Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 4,835
|
|
|
|
24 July 2007, 05:47 AM
|
#2273 (permalink)
|
|
Forum Ace of Aces
Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 4,835
|
The instruction booklet is not very clear on how to put this engine together ,so I will take a few more pics to supplement their text.I assume that anyone putting this engine together in the future ,will already have a booklet.Model Expo has also put up a copy of it on their website.
I plan to build up one cylinder at a time around the crankcase.
Be sure to clean up all parts and dry fit everything before final assembly. 
|
|
|
24 July 2007, 06:37 AM
|
#2274 (permalink)
|
|
Forum Ace of Aces
Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 4,835
|
|
|
|
24 July 2007, 07:52 AM
|
#2275 (permalink)
|
|
Forum Ace of Aces
Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 4,835
|
|
|
|
24 July 2007, 05:02 PM
|
#2276 (permalink)
|
|
Forum Ace of Aces
Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 4,835
|
|
|
|
25 July 2007, 06:38 AM
|
#2277 (permalink)
|
|
Forum Ace of Aces
Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 4,835
|
|
|
|
25 July 2007, 07:40 AM
|
#2278 (permalink)
|
|
Forum Ace of Aces
Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 4,835
|
John:
I used Tamiya Acrylic. Water based paint.
Would enamel work better.???
Hi! I am not sure about enamel as I haven't really used it much and I was never very happy with Tamiya acrylic that you thin with alcohol .Personally I use JoSonja acrylic mostly because it dries absolutely flat in its natural state.By adding your own varnish
you have complete control over the toughness of the surface depending on where you want to use it.With figures for example when I know they won't be subject to a lot of handling and I want to retain a fairly flat finish ,I use only a little varnish or none at all.With a light rubbing of your finger over the surface you can then bring it up to a low luster.(especially nice for the leather look)If you were doing something like a model RR train that would be handled a lot I would use as much varnish as I can(subject to it getting too shiny) and even top coat it with a semi-luster varnish to toughen it up.The nice thing about this type of paint is that you have complete control over the shine and the toughness of the surface you want.In addition ,if you screw up ,you don't have to start all over again as long as you have put your paint on in thin coats.Say for example you find the surface too shiny you can come back over it with just the tube paint and start again with a new flat surface.As far as how easily it chips,which was your original question ,I would try just experimenting a bit with a tube of the paint and a little varnish.Let the paint set for a few days though.Another nice thing about Jo Sonja is that it is quite easy to remove for the first 24 hours(approx)
Cheers! John.
|
|
|
25 July 2007, 03:40 PM
|
#2279 (permalink)
|
|
Forum Ace of Aces
Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Montreal,Canada
Posts: 4,835
|
|
|
|
|
Tags
|
scratchbuilding, nieuport, john reid, jenny, golden era, flying the mail, dioramas, curtiss jenny, canuck, camel, barnstormers, aircraft dioramas, albatros, air shows, wood and wire, 116th scale  |
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:25 PM.
|