1/72 Aeroclub Lewis and Scarf ring...

Lufbery · 16 September 2004, 01:00 PM

Hi all,

I'm about to order the Aeroclub 1/72 Scarff ring and Lewis Gun set. I understand the set is white metal, and from the photos I've seen, they look pretty good.

Have any of you folks used this particular part? If so, is there anything I need to watch out for? If not, do you have some general tips on working with white metal?

Thanks,

Ross_Moorhouse · 17 September 2004, 01:58 AM

I really like Aeroclubs whitemetal parts. I don't have this set but I am sure it will be up to their great detail.

Lufbery · 17 September 2004, 06:02 AM

Thanks, Ross.

Do you have any tips for working with white metal parts?

Regards,

jamo · 17 September 2004, 03:49 PM

Hi Lufbery
For working with white metal parts you will need to use CA or two-part epoxy glue. In most other respects they are like plastic pieces: they benefit from a clean up of flash and use of an undercoat.

Lewis guns look great made of white metal but some parts of the Scarf ring would have more realistic thin-ness if made from PE sets (the notched brackets for elevating the gun mount). Also gun sights are best in PE - depending on how advanced your condition of Advanced Modeller Syndrome is . . .

Cheers
James

Lufbery · 20 September 2004, 02:04 PM

Well, my AMS is not that advanced, yet.

Still, it's bad enough that I'm ordering aftermarket parts for a $5 Glencoe kit.

Regards, and thanks for the replies,

edmondthieffry · 20 September 2004, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lufbery

Do you have any tips for working with white metal parts?

Regards,

Hello Lufbery

As it's responded before, use cyano or 2 part epoxies to glue them.

I used Aeroclub Lewis, Vickers and Spandaus regularly on my models and they are not bad at all (the white metal parts, not my models) but I prefer to work with Tom's Modelworks photoetching. Even if it's a pain in the ... to build them correctly. When finished, they are little gems. If you want take a look on my Halberstadt Cl.II to see one of them finished.

If you use Aeroclub parts, remove the molding joints with a fine jewelry file and polish the part with a copper brush mounted on a mini drill to remove the grainy aspect of the white metal. Finish the polishing with a very fine steel wool (5/0) to obtain a perfect part.

Hope this help.

Best regards from Belgium

Edmond (aka Philippe)

Lufbery · 21 September 2004, 07:42 AM

Thanks for the tips, Edmond! I'll be ordering the parts at the end of this week. What's the best way to prime the white metal?

Regards,

edmondthieffry · 21 September 2004, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lufbery

... snip. What's the best way to prime the white metal?

Regards,

Hello Lufbery,

Usually, I spray just a light coat of matt light grey from Gunze Sangyo or Vallejo.
If you want a beter primer, you can use also an automotive primer in spray.

Personally, I dislike this late solution : It's difficult to obtain a fine coat of paint. If I've to do it, I spray a litlle paint in an empty can, dilute the paint with an appropriate thinner and spray it with my airbrush. Like this, I've more control on the paint flow.

Hope this help.

Best regards from Belgium

Philippe (aka Edmond)

Lufbery · 21 September 2004, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edmondthieffry

Usually, I spray just a light coat of matt light grey from Gunze Sangyo or Vallejo.
If you want a beter primer, you can use also an automotive primer in spray.

Do you think that regular old Testors spray enamel will work? I like to use that as a primer coat before applying Testors MM acrylics with an airbrush. It works well with plastic, but I'm not sure how it will work with metal.

On another board, three people have recommended three different primers: Floquil grey primer, Citadel white primer, or Krylon primer. It seems there are as many ways to work with white metal parts as there are modelers.

Thanks, again, for the tips. By the way I checked out the Tom's Model Works PE guns. They look like they'd turn out great, but they also look like they take a lot of work.

Regards,

edmondthieffry · 21 September 2004, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lufbery

By the way I checked out the Tom's Model Works PE guns. They look like they'd turn out great, but they also look like they take a lot of work.

Regards,

You bet, mate.

In this case, more than 30 hours. But, I must precise that the ring was entirely scratchbuilt, as many other parts on this model.

Regards

Philippe