Pfalz D.VIII in 1/48

[StephenLawson]

‘Germany’s Sub Nosed Spad’

The Pfalz Flugzeugwerke plans for this and its sister the D.VII are dated January 1918. But its designs were cataloged as early as November 30, 1917. In this case Pfalz was taking a page from the French Spad fighter. The thin-low drag airfoil profile that made the Spad fast and hard to beat in a dive was just the ticket that the design team was looking for. Late in the war high speed and diving ability became as equally important as maneouvrability. Both the D.VII and the D.VIII were built around the Siemens-Halske Sh III 160 hp, 11 cylinder counter rotary. Operationally it was different from a standard rotary engine. You see on a standard rotary, the cylinders and propeller turned on a stationary crankshaft, turning in one direction at 1400 rpms. On the ShIII 160hp the propeller and cylinders turned at 900 rpms in one direction, while and the Crankshaft turned 900 rpms in the other direction. This counteracted the torque inherent in the standard rotary engine and produced a maximum of 210hp. Later a modified version, the Sh.IIIa put out a maximum of 240hp. Another company named 'Rhemag' developed the reliable Sh.III(Rh.) These rotaries were to be the first to be equipped with a true form of throttle control instead of a 'blip' switch. Being highly maneuverable and fast climbing aircraft types, they became ideal for Germany's Home Defense units known as KEST ( Kampf - Einsitzer - STaffeln.) Several examples were flown successfully by experienced pilots like Ltn Paul Bäumer of Jasta Boelcke.

Though it looked like a small milk bottle with wings, it was to prove itself against all of its contemporaries in maneuverability and climb. The main difference is that the D.VII was a single bay and the D.VIII was the double bay arrangement. It seems that the D.VIII was the one that won the contract in the second fighter trials type testing. Idflieg ordered 120 of the type D.VIII.

Tom’s Modelworks has a famous line of multimedia WWI aviation kits. In the beginning he used vacuform wings and fuselages, white metal struts, resin engines and brass details. Later the major components were in resin with white metal struts and brass details. The engines from this later series all seemed to be either white metal or resin. While some resin kits were problematic, some were very nice. These are for experienced modelers and that is not an overstatement. To be successful the builder must have a better than average knowledge. If you are just beginning to model WWI type aircraft the truth is this model will end up as good as you make it. The Tom’s Modelworks Pfalz D.VII / VIII kit (#110R) can work out nicely and is a great addition to any modeler’s stable. I would also consider purchasing the Eduard Brass fret #48217 for Pfalz D. type aircraft.

Step 1. Begins as every First World War aircraft kit should, with the cockpit. It is important to stick to some building basics here. For cockpits, planning is the whole key. Often sidewalls are too thick and interior pieces are jammed together that in reality were separated. To have a really detailed interior you need to carve out the cockpit interior with a Dremel motortool cutter for better interior simulations.

The Cockpit Floor should be varnished wood with raised metal details. The top of the Main Fuel Tank is centrally located within the forward third area of the fuselage with the fuel gauge appearing between the muzzles of the Spandau machine guns. This was usually a round faced gauge. The Seat Supports are attached to the internal structures. The Seat is a late model German type and I used a spare Albatros type. Next paint the handle for the fuel & air adjustment lever to look like metal and stained wood. Add two scrap pieces of plastic to the left and right half of the fuselage interiors behind the seat to represent a Fabric Screen/Wall for the rear cockpit. These should overlap slightly behind the seat. These are to be covered in 5 colour lozenge. Their center union seam cannot be seen due to the back of the seat.

Close up the fuselage halves & blend the seams. One of the most typical problems with WWI aviation kits it that many manufacturers tend to over-estimate the gap from the top forward deck of the fuselage to the top wing. Your gap between the wings can be dead on but if the gap from the fuselage to the top wing is too great the cabane struts will usually be too short. The best answer is to add plastic sheet stock to the fuselage to build it up. Then note that the horizontal stabilizers are built right into the fuselage structure and should be covered in a similar nature. This means silbergraü doped fabric over wood veneer. The elevators are fabric covered. Add all surface details next. Finish the fuselage and leave to dry thoroughly.

Great post Stephen! Even though I don't build in the gigantic scale of 1/48 I find I learn so much (history & technique) from those who do. I can't wait to see what you post next...

Brian da Basher

[Tripehound]

I tried his Web site but all I found was ship stuff, with very little aviation. Do I need to get his printed catalog to find out what he's got?

[Ross_Moorhouse]

Originally Posted by Tripehound

I tried his Web site but all I found was ship stuff, with very little aviation. Do I need to get his printed catalog to find out what he's got?

This is Toms email tom@tomsmodelworks.com I think you will find he dosn't do full kits anymore. I could be wrong.

[StephenLawson]

Originally Posted by Ross_Moorhouse

This is Toms email tom@tomsmodelworks.com I think you will find he dosn't do full kits anymore. I could be wrong.

You will be surprised what you can buy and he does still produce brass etch fret sets.

[brian riedel]

Howdy,

Great post Steve, look forward to the rest of it.
I have built this kit in the past, the D-VIII being one of my
favorite planes, and intend to build another. The Seimens- Halske
resin is one of the best representations of this engine I've seen.
Tom's kit is pretty good, though like a lot of modelers, I did
replace a few parts like the wheels, Spandaus, struts etc.

On what refrences are you basing the cockpit? I guessed at
some fittings from the D-III and others from the D-XII. Being a rotary
engine, would the throttle be more like a Fokker Dr.I? Hopefully
the restoration in Italy of the only existing D-VIII can shed some
information on this great looking plane.

Those of you in the Los Angeles area that are interested
can see my Phalz at The Military Shop in Long Beach.

Brian Riedel

[StephenLawson]

Originally Posted by brian riedel

Howdy,...The Seimens- Halske resin is one of the best representations of this engine I've seen. Tom's kit is pretty good, though like a lot of modelers, I did replace a few parts like the wheels, Spandaus, struts etc.

Greetings Brian...I favor more the Rosemont / Atlee version. But they are very close.

Originally Posted by brian riedel

On what refrences are you basing the cockpit? I guessed at some fittings from the D-III and others from the D-XII. Being a rotary engine, would the throttle be more like a Fokker Dr.I? Hopefully
the restoration in Italy of the only existing D-VIII can shed some
information on this great looking plane.

Actually I based it on some info from Dan San Abbott and the SSW D.III/D.IV and the typical Pfalz layout. Since the Pfalz D.III and D.XII are inline versions much of their layout will not be relavent. Not much resemblance to the Fok. Dr.I (in my opinion.)

[stringbags4ever2]

Stephen:

Your knowledge of WW I history continues to astound me. So much to learn. Anxiously awaiting your next post here.

[StephenLawson]

Greetings all;
2.Concerning the twin Spandau Maxim machine guns, I replaced the white metal provided kit items with two spare Eduard items. I gave both the typical ring n cross hairs sight. Note that only some of the late model Pfalz D.VIII types had the machine gun cocking handles. Most of the Pfalz fighters used ‘T’ shaped handles in the cockpit leading from the cocking levers on the right side of the gun breeches and worked via a linkage system. I also added the full belt chutes and two spent cartridge chutes using extras from the DML/ Dragon Spandaus. I carved out two breech slots in the forward upper deck to accomidate the Spandaus and the chutes. I further added a scratchbuilt fuel gauge between the Spandau muzzles.

[StephenLawson]

3. First of all leave the top wing, upper surface and the lower wing under surfaces unfinished. Why you ask? These are the areas that you need to apply glue to. An open flat surface is easier to work with than the narrow area between the wings. Now measure and mark the locations for each hole and drill straight through the wing the rigging holes will be about 1/16 of an inch away from the strut holes. When drilling the rigging holes note that they should be next to the strut at the appropriate angle. There should be two holes for each strut and each rigging strand. Note also that one hole can possibly hold upto 5 strands easily. Once your wings are drilled and partially covered (lozenge decals.) I pinned the lower wings to the fuselage fillets using brass rods inserted into pre-drilled holes. Bring these components together with the fuselage using a temporary ‘Lego’ block jig and let the assembly dry thoroughly. The referenced jig keeps everything lined up correctly. (Hint!!! If your kit is eyeballed by a contest judge and they find that it is NOT plumb or square, it will be dropped from further consideration.)