Modelling putty...

John Masters · 24 January 2005, 07:35 AM

I'm having a putty dilemma. I don't like Testors Contour Putty (too wet, grainy, and dries crumbly) or the green stuff from Squadron. What are you guys using? Also, is there a 'mini' version of the Dremel? The only one I've seen is kind of large. Thanks for your help.
JDCMasters

edmondthieffry · 24 January 2005, 10:42 AM

Hi John,

Usually, I use Squadron green or white putty to fill big joints. I mix it with a little aceton if I want a creamy consistency to fill little joints. To smooth it, I use a toothpicks or a little spatula that I wet with aceton too.

Sometime, I use Vallejo putty. I use it mainly to fill the joint on a windscreen or other little
slits. This putty work only on small surfaces or crevices.

If I've to redo a part like a radiator (or to reshape a nose or a fuselage), I use mainly a 2 components putty like Milliput. After drying, It become hard as a rock and you can pierce or sand it without problem.

If you want, you can mix your own putty. In a small cup, mix a little amount of Future with talcum powder due to the consistency that you want. Apply as usually. Let it dry 48 hours. After drying, you can sand it without problem also.

Finally, my prefered method is to dissolve little bit of plastic in trichloroethylene(CHCl=CCl2). Varying the amount of plastic in trichlo, you can obtain any consistency that you want. After drying, it react like the plastic and must be sanded, filed or polished as any other plastic. But beware when using it. Trichlo is a real noxious product and you must work only in a well ventilated area. I must add that this product is not available anywhere, because of local law restrictions.

Hope this is help for you.

Best regards from Belgium

Philippe

willycoppens · 24 January 2005, 10:43 AM

Hi,
You might want to try Squadron White modeling putty. It seems to have a stronger formula - doesn't crumble and sticks better to your work. Really smells bad, so you probably don't want to inhale it very much - probably not good for your health.
Willy

Matt_Bittner · 24 January 2005, 11:40 AM

For putty I use a 3M product for automobiles - the "red" stuff. I have a tube that should last me until after I retire.

In addition I also use "Super Glue" (CA) and for smaller imperfections, Mr. Surfacer 500 and 1000.

Scimitar · 25 January 2005, 08:30 AM

Another solution I've tried too is a mix of talc and cyano. Works very well, but a little bit expansive due to the use of cyano...
Other than that, I'm actually using Tamiya putty or Miliput depending of the nature of the work... And I've just ordered for Squadron putty.

Jagdstaffeln · 26 January 2005, 01:23 AM

Depending on what you are trying to accomplish, there's some highly toxic

, semi-toxic

, and many non-toxic

, products out there. Many aren't specifically made or marketed for the model airplane builder, and some you have to be really creative to think up. ALWAYS read the caution labels, and never take the position "I'll just hold my breath with I'm pouring the stuff with the MEK in it..." Some materials have good, others excellent strength characteristics. Depending whether your application is cosmetic or structural, whether a detail part can be cast, and whether you're talking about 1/72 or 1/3 scale, consider:

Bondo

auto filler putty

sandable auto primer

Gesso

Sculpey (see sculpey.com)

Great-Stuff (the expanable insulation foam that hardens)

POR-15

plaster and plaster first sifted through a piece
of cloth (this gives you a very fine detail finish) mixed with gesso that
can be poured in to a mold made of play-doh, clay, etc.

the broad range of products from smooth-on.com - this
company and their products are tremendous.

There's many more too, to experiment and discover is the key...