Scratchbuilding a Model in Card, Step by Step - Page 11

EricGoedkoop · 14 August 2005, 06:39 PM

With all the all the lines attached and running wild, it was time to start taming them.

I cut a short piece of monofilament for each attachment point and passed one end of it through each of a pair of holes:

The ends were tied in a loose knot above the wing, the proper upper and lower rigging lines were fished out of the mess and run through and then the knot was pulled tight:

A drop of white glue traps the knot so it can't come untied.

Repeat eleven times:

This allows each of the 24 rigging lines to be adjusted at the wing, pulling and keeping it straight. As I mentioned earlier, white glue won't adhere to the invisible thread, so although it prevents the knots from coming out the rigging lines themselves will still slide through the knots and can therefore be tightened or loosened. Making sure the knots were good and tight made it hard for the lines to move, so I could adjust them and they'd stay put.

Ross_Moorhouse · 14 August 2005, 06:41 PM

I have a hair dryer and hair brush if this will help. Looks like a bag hair day.

EricGoedkoop · 14 August 2005, 06:49 PM

Pulling the lines in or out straightens or curls the wing. All you have to do is adjust them until it's flat and you're set:

I found that the only one I really had to worry about were the outermost lines. The inboard ones could all be left loose and the wing straightened pretty effectively using just those nearest the wingtips.

I also found the easiest way to do all this was by suspending the model by it's wingtips:

Nothing elaborate - with the aeroplane proppd up on two 4x4s I tugged a little this way and a little that way, eyeballing it each time until the wing was flat and level to the fuse.

When I had things where I wanted them, the rigging lines were knotted to themselves:

Pulled tight, another drop of white glue seals the deal:

EricGoedkoop · 14 August 2005, 06:54 PM

I tied off the outermost lines on the topside first to eliminate the wing droop, and then their counterparts on the bottomside. After that, those remainig needed little more than to be pulled snug and tied off:

A trip around with a fresh new blade took care of all the unsightly excess string:

And that's it:

I have to say - biplanes are easier

Barker · 14 August 2005, 07:37 PM

superb, Eric!

question: are you using a flex CA?

Zap Gap (Slo, Green label) is what I use and it can be brittle.

thing admired is even tension, not necessarily the number of runs.

it's beautifully done, Eric.

EricGoedkoop · 15 August 2005, 03:39 AM

Thanks, Barker.

I use the green label Zap for rigging, where I absolutely have to - on this one only at the two pylons. I much prefer to knot the line and use white glue, as even the thick CA will soak in and stain card. I use the pink label Zap for saturating parts like the upper pylon when I need rigidity and strength.

Barker · 15 August 2005, 06:16 AM

I knew I shoulda been more clear:

yes to white glue - a great tip someone gave - but specific to the pylon:

all that manipulation held at the post?

that's what am asking.

I never know when to trust the stuff.

and I loathe rigging....so your string up is muchly admired.

EricGoedkoop · 15 August 2005, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barker

specific to the pylon:

all that manipulation held at the post?

Yep. It helps that the pylon was soaked with CA beforehand - the glue won't disappear as soon as you drop it on there - and to use the thicker stuff to have a few seconds to work. I sorted out the six lines first and arranged them next to each other in a flat ribbon. Holding this in one hand, I placed a little glob of the green label on the point of the pylon, dropped my bamboo skewer, grabbed the lines about an inch away from where I was still holding them and sunk them into the glue. I held them there for about 15 seconds, and then put another drop on top.

Quote:

I never know when to trust the stuff.

In this case, both ends of each of the lines are knotted and secured at the wing, so there really isn't much stress on the CA bond.

Right?

Quote:

and I loathe rigging....so your string up is muchly admired.

So . . . . no Taubes on the To-Do list, then?

Barker · 15 August 2005, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EricGoedkoop

So . . . . no Taubes on the To-Do list, then?

did I flip you that earl for the M1.c?
that's bout as close as I'll get to a stringup...

a DH-2 says Too Bad, Chas, but I still don't like rigging much.
I'll do it but probably come in here and whine about it.
"It was Hell" recalls former child, some such.

all ceramic wire and white glue.

lessee...

ok - here you go: Love Biffs, want two, that's about five miles of whatever one prefers.

yeah - rigging.

tsk.

which-is-why your stuff is all the more admired.

EricGoedkoop · 15 August 2005, 05:59 PM

Finished up the fiddly bits I was holding off on until they would be reasonably safe from being crushed or torn off:

The intake pipes are silver tissue, colored black on the inside and rolled around a drill bit one size smaller than I used to make the holes for them in the panels. Footsteps are black card.

And for those keeping track, each model has had one elevator knocked off so far. Told you.