Scratchbuilding a Model in Card, Step by Step

[EricGoedkoop]

Hello, everyone.

I'm starting this thread as promised to document my next cardmodelling project, which is actually going to be a pair of models: a Morane-Saulnier L and Pfalz A.I. Essentially, they're the same aircraft but there are enough differences to keep things interesting. Building two will give me the chance to show formed parts next to the flat paper parts they are made from, so I think it will work out.

Perhaps the single biggest difference between card and plastic modelling is that rather than being painted and marked at the end or at the end of sub-assemblies, a card model is colored from the beginning. Commercial kits print out with all the markings and details present and in their correct spot; when I scratchbuild I apply markings separately but use cardstock and paper that is the color of the finished item. The downside of all this, of course, is that you don't get a chance to cover up your goofs at the end.

With that in mind, the first step is to decide on your subject(s). I've picked two well-known ones: the French MS356 and Pfalz A.I of Fl.Abt 9b in fake Austrian markings - I just can't resist! The French MoS has the later undercarriage with front legs moved aft, long nose and the triangular fin of the late production machines. The Pfalz represents the earlier version of the design, with shorter nose and front undercarriage legs at the firewall.

[Ross_Moorhouse]

Hey stop this. I may wnat to build on of these card models too.

[EricGoedkoop]

Here's the basic stuff I use:



1) Three- or more-view plans, 1/48th scale. I work from more than one set of drawings when they're available, as invariably some show things that others don't. Here I'm using Ian Stair's from the Datafile (naturally) and also the Alex Dumas three-view, which is very useful as it shows internal structure. They don't quite agree on major outlines, but that's alright. I've scanned them, scaled them, chopped them up and rearranged them so that all the profile views are together on one page and so forth. I've printed two copies, because I'm going to cut one of them into pieces almost immediately.

2) An X-acto knife and lots of blades, Elmer's glue, permanent spray adhesive and removable spray adhesive. I also use a little bit of CA for certain things.

3) Cardstock. I've chosen a light cream for the Pfalz and a somewhat darker shade for the MoS. MS356 has the serial number painted in gigantic fancy numbers on the sides of the fuse, and you can see that I've printed this detail (and a faint outline of the fuselage profile) onto one of the pieces of the darker card. I drew these and the other markings I'll need in Photoshop while I was laying out the drawings. I printed two sets, just in case. I'll also use some brown and black cardstock, as well as colored paper, white paper colored with markers, and different colors of tissue paper.

For me, one of the advantages of scratchbuilding is that the weight of the stock isn't crucial; a commercial kit has been designed to use a specific thickness of stock and if you don't use the same weight the designer did, you can have some very annoying fit problems.

4) Markings printed on tissue paper. This page includes the French roundels and rudder stripes, eisernekreuze and red/white wing and fuselage stripes for the Pfalz. The tissue is adhered to a carrier sheet of regular paper with removable spray adhesive and goes through the printer with no problem. I sealed this with a few light coats of a clear acrylic after the ink dried, and peeled it off the carrier sheet. You can see how translucent the tissue is; I'll hit the back with a coat or two of white spray paint to opaque it up. I use tissue paper because it's thin enough to not look like a "layer' when it's glued to the model. Again, i make a point of prining as many extras as I have room for.



5) Cutting mat.

6) Circle template, for drawing and also creating circular things like control wheels and gun rings from long strips of paper.

7) Olfa circle cutter. This is an outstanding and indispensable tool. It'll do a circle from just under 1/2" diameter up to around 8". Buy one. Perfect for paper and card, it will also do thin balsa and thin plastic.

8) Metal ruler. Metal.

9) Small drill bits. This particular set is made by Dremel, but I rarely use them in my Dremel tool. They're handy for making holes in cardstock (just twist them by hand) and also as mandrels or rolling parts around.

10) Hole punch, with different size punches. The family hates it when my normally quiet hobby requires me to start whacking this thing with a hammer.

11) Straight pins, for poking holes and making propellors and engines spin.

12) Graph paper, 10 squares to the inch. I tape my stock to this for drawing parts.

Tomorrow, I'll start to build.

[EricGoedkoop]

Originally Posted by Ross_Moorhouse

Hey stop this. I may wnat to build on of these card models too.

I won't stop until at least one of you do . . . . .


Besides, a guy I met through a card modelling site joined the 'Drome today. It's only fair for us to return the favor.

[Ross_Moorhouse]

Hi Eric.

Can you maybe list the thickness of the card stock you use? Also where can it be obtained from?

Have you thought of using plastic parts for things like engines, props, undercart parts etc?

[EricGoedkoop]

Originally Posted by Ross_Moorhouse

Can you maybe list the thickness of the card stock you use? Also where can it be obtained from?

I mostly use 65# stock from the craft store, Michael's here in the U.S. It's acid-free and comes in assortments. The package I most often buy has 5 sheets each of brown, grey, white and the two cream colors shown above. You can also buy single sheets and there are hundreds of colors available - I'm on the lookout for a decent PC10.

Have you thought of using plastic parts for things like engines, props, undercart parts etc?

No, no, no - you've got it backwards, mate. I am leading you to the dark side, not the other way 'round.

Taking the model as an object unto itself, I like continuity of material and the clean, somewhat simplified look of a finished piece made entirely of paper. It's an aesthetic thing, really - to achieve the most realistic result I think mixing media would be a great idea.

[JohnReid]

I just saw Ron Burns Pfalz D111 cardmodel .Wow! cardmodeling seems to be a natural for WW1 biplanes.I am very much looking forward to learning more about this technique.Great idea for a step by step build Eric! Cheers! John.

[PeterL]

Drooling in my beer here. This is going to be good.

[EricGoedkoop]

So I guess you guys are looking forward to this? I know none of you need the encouragement, but please feel free to ask any questions you might have as we go. It takes me about three weeks to build an average model, working for a few hours each night and a few on Sunday. Building two at the same time, taking photos and updating this thread is going to stretch it out a bit.

The sequence I usually follow when building goes something like this:

1) Fuselage sides, bottom and turtledeck
2) Cockpit
3) Forward decking, cowl and engine
4) Landing gear legs, cabane struts and tailskid
5) Tailfeathers, built and attached
6) Wings
7) Attachment of wings and rigging
8) Wheels, back seat machine guns and other stuff that would get wrecked if I did it earlier
9) Propellor

[EricGoedkoop]

So first things first - fuselage sides:



The MoS L is an easy one, since the fuse is your basic tapered box with nothing fancy about it at all. It's very, very important to make sure that both sides are matched as close to perfectly as possible, so I cut them at the same time. The photo above shows the profile view cut from the plans taped to two layers of cardstock. The photo below shows all four fuse sides cut out.



Since the sides of the MS356 had to be printed with markings ahead of time, I also printed a faint outline of the rear fuselage onto the stock. This allowed me to partially cut them out, line up the two parts and then tape the profile view to them and proceed as normal. They needed a little trimming but came out fine. You can also see the slightly longer nose of the later French bird compared to the Pfalz.