Hints and Tips...

[Ross_Moorhouse]

Originally Posted by John Masters

Barker---wood grain is actually pretty easy. It just takes practice. Like the tutorial said, practice on a piece of strip styrene first and get hang of it. I also remember what Dan San said about scale. For the most part 72nd scale is not going to show a whole lot of grain due to size.

From the Factory on the hill,
John Masters

This is a very good point John.I ahve seen good woodgrain done in this scale but wondered what would it look like in real size. So maybe just a wood colour only. No grain in this scale. Would this look to bland and bleached? Or are we too used to seeing wood grain done in this scale and it would look wierd without the grain effect?

[John Masters]

I think Dan San also remarked that wood grain in munchkin scale will appear to be more of a matter of shading than little stripes of color. Of course 48th and larger will be a diferent matter...


From the Factory on the hill,
John

[Barker]

Originally Posted by John Masters

Barker---wood grain is actually pretty easy. It just takes practice. Like the tutorial said, practice on a piece of strip styrene first and get hang of it. I also remember what Dan San said about scale. For the most part 72nd scale is not going to show a whole lot of grain due to size.

and


Of course 48th and larger will be a diferent matter...

and that's the rub.
Tone and not so much grain as darker & lighter streaks, here & there, variable. Some do it in color pencil & then a brush to blend but so far, have just used a brush.
Managed a Camel almost exactly as I wanted that series of panels to look. But an Albatros gives me hives... think it's the panels.
Am a picky bastard and perhaps that's a problem.
But practice is the thing, I guess.

[Ross_Moorhouse]

Jigs for placing Wings & here http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/sh...651#post234651

[Ross_Moorhouse]

Turning Future/Klear matt

[Lufbery]

Two new tools that made rigging *MUCH* easier:

Hi all,

I've been working on the rigging for my Glencoe MB-2 biplane kit, and it has been going slowly. My two problems were that I had a hard time seeing the holes I had drilled in the wings (where the rigging lines go), and the super glue would take too long to cure.

So this weekend I picked up a Panter Vision (that's the brand) baseball cap, which has two bright LED lights at the end of the brim! I also picked up some superglue accelerator.

Now I can see, and the glue sets instantly. Rigging is going much more quickly.

Here's a link to the hat: http://www.perfectionoptics.com/prd_hat.html

I got my at Lowes for around $20.

My wife thinks I look funny, but I don't care.

[EricGoedkoop]

Here's a step-by-step I wrote up on making spoked wheels. I developed the method by adapting Woodman's technique to work with paper for the cardmodel purists (like me), but I think it should be easily adaptable to plastic.

[Dan_San_Abbott]

Ross_Moorhouse:
I think you will find that all Alb.D.,D.II and D.III fuselages were shellacked and varnished and were a yellow color. The color has been described as a warm straw yellow. They were not stained. That is a result of of the orthochromatic film, it photographs yellow, in black and white as a dark grey. Alb.D.II 497/16 was photographed in several views, the side view looks as though it was stained, in a 3/4 rear view it is very apparent it was only finished in a clear varnish. Another that has been misdepicted is Ltn.Ernst Udet's Alb.DIII 1941/16. I had originally drawn it with a rust brown stained fuselage. Not so, Straw Yellow.
Varnish has a yellow cast to it. When painted on a white surface it will dry with a yellow color. The color comes from the flax seed, when crushed and ground it is yellow.
Blue skies,
Dan-San

[Ross_Moorhouse]

From http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/news/ar...Waligorski.xml

Thanks to Jerker on our Swedsih-language discussion forum we have now an extensive list of washing tutorials on the web which I gladly pass on here.

A reflection from reading these articles is that there seems to be no dominant washing "school" - indeed, some authors swear by techniques rejected by others, and vice versa...

Personally I'm convinced that everone is right and you can achieve great results with any of these - but there is not substitute for trying on your own

http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/howto/wash.htm
(author's preference is artists' oil on matt surfaces)

http://www.missing-lynx.com/rare_world/rw04.htm
(Humbrol enamels on glossy surface)

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.co...son/tnt043.htm
(artists' oils on glossy surface)

http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?...icle&artid=782
(Various acrylic washes)

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Weathering.html
(So-called sludge wash)

[Flamingo]

A very simple and effective way to represent wood grain is to use one or more coloured pencils on a flat painted base. Experiment on some scrap pieces to get the feel, study your furniture. Try it on laminated props!