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8 June 2006, 02:06 PM
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#31 (permalink) |
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Observer
Join Date: May 2006
Location: L.R. Ark
Posts: 6
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Real wood grain.
The way we handle this in modeling various sci-fi subjects, is to take very thin sheet balsa or bass wood. The more flexible the better.
 Cut the piece to the size of your planes flooring, and then add very watered down washes of watercolor, like yellow ochre, mixed with burnt sienna, and maybe a little burnt umber. Do not give it so many washes the you end up loosing your grain, but it'll look fantastic, and real all the way to 1/72 scale. Seal this with very thin coats of linseed oil, and allow to dry for a couple of days. It'll be gorgeous. Hope this starts a new wave of ideas. Try it.  |
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22 June 2006, 01:13 PM
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#33 (permalink) |
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Two-seater Pilot
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 142
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Rigging
Always being afraid of rigging I tried the stretched sprue approach I was pretty happy with the results although on a 1/72 model one has to be sure not to make the stretched sprue too thick.
The only problem I ran into with this is the fact that after applying a base coat to paint The stretched sprue becomes brittle. While painting I kept knocking the stretched sprue loose. So after having a finished model I had to use super glue and go back and re-glue the rigging. has anyone else tried this method? Lufbery I will have to try the speaker wire rigging sounds great and fairly easy now that I have a dremel tool. Stephen Lucas
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" 'Cause those damned blue-collared tweekers Are runnin' this here town " Last edited by stephenl; 22 June 2006 at 03:04 PM. |
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22 June 2006, 02:08 PM
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#34 (permalink) |
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Forum Ace
Contributor
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Northeast Oblong
Posts: 1,085
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If I use sprue to rig my builds (and I tend to use both sprue and stainless) I make sure the build is completely finished before I attach any rigging.
I've been using Elmer's white glue lately. It's especially good with super-thin sprue as it doesn't heat up the fragile plastic like CA or cement. It also gives one the option to remove the rigging piece and reposition, remeasure, etc...if needed. Good luck, and happy rigging! I can't wait to see the results! From the Factory on the hill, John  |
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22 September 2006, 03:24 PM
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#35 (permalink) | ||
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Fly a Sopwith Dunny...
Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: On a big black BMW
Posts: 3,477
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Quote:
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 My Scale Model site ... My Motorcycle Blog. "...you can never be too dogmatic about WWI finishes." the voice of reason.. Quote:
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22 September 2006, 03:58 PM
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#36 (permalink) |
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Ace of Aces & Old Bone
Contributor
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colorado
Posts: 8,008
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Eduard's new series of prepainted photoetch is made of a softer metal. In most cases you don't need to apply heat. Its very plyable.
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WWI-N-Plastic.com |
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26 September 2006, 08:02 AM
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#37 (permalink) |
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Observer
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 13
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hint&tip,s
i,m in the middle of making a fokker eindekker but am having trouble with the balsa wood splitting lengthway,s i think it might be that the wood might be damp as i started the model in my attic but if anyone know,s a way to stop this happening it would bemost appreciated.
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27 September 2006, 04:06 PM
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#38 (permalink) | |
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Ace of Aces & Old Bone
Contributor
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colorado
Posts: 8,008
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Quote:
Here is a bit of fun on the subject ofPrepainted PE.
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WWI-N-Plastic.com |
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8 October 2006, 03:08 PM
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#39 (permalink) | |
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Fly a Sopwith Dunny...
Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: On a big black BMW
Posts: 3,477
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Acrylic painting through the Airbrush......
__________________
My Scale Model site ... My Motorcycle Blog. "...you can never be too dogmatic about WWI finishes." the voice of reason.. Quote:
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8 October 2006, 07:32 PM
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#40 (permalink) |
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Scout Pilot
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 430
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Home made instruments
Gentlemen,
There is a set of punches for modelers made but the cost is very dear. As in, NOT IN THE BUDGET! I made myself a set of punches by using short pieces of brass tubing of various diameters. I chucked them into the old Mototool and ground a bevel on one end with a file. I don't cut anything tougher than plastic so brass is hard enough. With these punches I can cut circles out of decal or paint a sheet of plastic. So far the best method I have found is to put the punch into the mototool on the drill press. If you try to freehand it it wil try to skate across the surface. I haven't done it yet but it has occured to me that I can also do a clear layer to simulate glass. This would also give enough depth to give an edge to paint for the instruments frame. This is cheap and easy, so I wanted to share it with you all. Best regards, Terry
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"The highest glory of the American Revolution was this: It connected in one indissoluable bond the principles of civil government with the principles of Christianity" President Adams 7/4/1821 |
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