Hints and Tips...

[HHaase]

Here's a good one that I keep having to force myself to use, dealing with jars of paint.

From the first time you open one.... never, never, never, never shake them to mix the paint. I find it results in inconsistant mixing, particularly with the lesser used colors, and splashes paint on the inside of the lid which causes them to get stuck on the jar.

Instead, I try to always stir the paint all the way down the the bottom, usually with scrap pieces of wood or old q-tips with the heads chopped off. More commonly used colors of course take less stirring as the pigments settle less.

When I remember to do this, the paint maintains the same quality all the way through the whole jar and the lids never get stuck.

[stringbags4ever2]

Another modeler whom I correspond with almst daily via e-mail told me that I was living in the dark ages because I stirred my jars of paint with (gasp) toothpicks! I bit the bullet and ordered the MicroMark paint stirrer. Powered by two AA batteries, it mixes paint in about 6 seconds. I start at the bottom of the jar and work my way to just below the surface and allow the mixer to scrape the sides of the jars. It produced consistent colors first time, every time. Now, I only use my toothpicks to hold things like wheels and props. Best 13 bucks I ever invested. I highly recommend the product to all. It may look chintzy, but it works as advertised.

[Kilian]

My dad made this photo on a market in Nice.

Any idea what plane type that should be ?

[Kilian]

again....link was gone:

[AROTH]

Looks like one of the Douglas World Cruisers from 1924.

[bobs_buckles]

Hello all,
I hope these little videos help.

YouTube - Airbrush cleaning part 1

YouTube - Airbrush cleaning part 2

Cheers,
Bob

[albatros1234]

I am working on making photoetch rigging points so all you do is glue them on and lace it up. I plan to eventually market these to the public, any suggestions,(what aircraft, scale, etc) welcome.

[Geek44]

Greetings all.
I've traditionally used the stretched sprue method to rig the few biplanes I've built in the past few years. I think it has some advantages and disadvantages, brittleness being one bad point mentioned here. So I have a question for the more experienced if I may.
What the heck is monofilament and where do I get it? How do you clean up a hole in your wing after rigging, especially if the wire runs through a decal? Anybody with answers please assume I know nothing. Thanks in advance.
Peace.

[albatros1234]

monofilament is basically fishing line. the smallest I can find readily is 4lb test which is good for 1/32. if you want smaller for 1/48 and 1/72 you can get at a fabric store,sewing supply invisible thread which is a monofilament (not multiple filaments like cotton thread, you know twisted little bits to make a larger thread) the invisible thread has the same properties as fishing line but thinner. I wouldnt put on wing decals if using the drill and pull method til done rigging.you can fill it with whatever and touch up paint then decal.

[Geek44]

Originally Posted by albatros1234

monofilament is basically fishing line. the smallest I can find readily is 4lb test which is good for 1/32. if you want smaller for 1/48 and 1/72 you can get at a fabric store,sewing supply invisible thread which is a monofilament (not multiple filaments like cotton thread, you know twisted little bits to make a larger thread) the invisible thread has the same properties as fishing line but thinner. I wouldnt put on wing decals if using the drill and pull method til done rigging.you can fill it with whatever and touch up paint then decal.

Thanks mate...so it's fishing line. I've read that lycra thread or even nylon works okay too. I guess I'm just exploring possibilities here. As I said, the stretched sprue method has worked well for me in the past but it has its drawbacks too. Thanks for the advice. Best wishes.
Peace.