Rolling PE Spandau jackets...

[John Masters]

Gents--


I searched for the thread but could not find it. How does one roll the PE jackets for 1/48 Spandaus? I seem to remember something about heat, but, alas, no details.

Thanks--

John

[Old Man]

Is use round rod for a mandril.

First, pass the brass through a flame; a lighter or match will do, and only for a few seconds. This will soften the brass somewhat.

I then press the thing over a length of 1.3 mm rod, which is oversize in diameter, pressing the seam edges with a toothpick, and giving the whole thing a good curve. I then slip it over a length of 1mm rod, which is about the right size, and repeat the pressing with a toothpick, concentrating on the seam edges. I have done several by this method, and it works pretty well. I suppose that, with some adjustment in the size of the rod emplyed, it would do in 1/48 as well.

[buzz1941]

Heat it til it glows, then allow it to cool gradually (don't dunk it in water!) -- this "annealing" takes the stiffness out.

[Rowan Broadbent]

Originally Posted by buzz1941

Heat it til it glows, then allow it to cool gradually (don't dunk it in water!) -- this "annealing" takes the stiffness out.

John, just be a bit careful here! the difference between glowing and melting is about 2.7 milliseconds!!!!! and certainly don't quench the brass afterwards - this has the opposite effect and hardens the material.

In 1/48 if you have one of the DML kits (Dr I etc) they have a nice little plastic tool included of just the right diameter.

How's the Blue Wonder? I've just got my hands on an Omega resin H-B CC, which will of course be done as Banfield's A.24 - eventually!

AtB

Rowan

[StephenLawson]

Greetings Gents;

The thread you were looking for is in the "Hints and tips" topic here that our own Ross Moorhouse began. I think I did a bit on the topic of Photoetch and it was rightly placed there. Also remember the thinner the brass the less heat you need to apply. Say Tom's Modelworks brass is so thin the application of heat will only make the pieces brittle. See post #11, page 2.

Hints and Tips...

[John Masters]

Thanks boys. I always seem to get the answers I need here at the drome. When it becomes time to build the DVII I'll use the candle flame, rod, and toothpick technique...

Rowan--I have yet to finish the Roden Camel in Polish colors (probably this weekend). Then I'll work on Banfields flying boat. Thanks for the paint! I'll save the Caproni for the summer, as I don't think I'll have time to do it justice before I head out for my spring excursion.

I really need to clean up my bench a bit...

From the Factory on te hill,
John

[mgtaylor]

John if you have some BIG Bucks for SOme PE BEnding Tools that will last the life of your Modeling BUilding Experience? THE SMALL SHOP sells some GREAT STUFF THE Original Grab and Folds, A SPecial PE Cutting Board Kit. (Ok its 3-4-inch Sq Black Acrylic Pieces, But you go make one then) AND THE Piece DA La Resistiance !!! A PE ROLLING KIT !!! For ROlling FLAT PE Pieces into TUbes. It takes all the advice about rolling PE Like Starting on a Soft surface and rolling a hard dowel over it to get it started and then more and more. It has a soft rubber mat side for that and then it actually has guildes/rounded groves on the over of all diamensions plus rollers that fit into them. MG JAckets NO Problem ever again!!!

[buzz1941]

Also, mousepads are good things to roll Spandau jackets on ...

[John Masters]

Thanks guys. It's good to know that I do not have to invest in some wierd tool to roll these puppies, but if I have a yen, I can unload my cash. I'll stick to a mouspad and a piece of dowel, my lighter, etc...Much simpler.


Cheers,
John

[buzz1941]

A dedicated high-tech tube-rolling apparatus is useful if you're making hundreds of little Spandaus. So basically, only Stephen needs one.