Whether to weather

Frentzen · 25 April 2006, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StephenLawson

Greetings all;

No weathering, no texturing (simulating the fabric finish on lozenge decaled surfaces) fully marked in a pilot's scheme but sparkling clean.

I've never heard the term "texturing" used before. What exactly is involved in texturing a lozenged finish?

Dan

StephenLawson · 25 April 2006, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frentzen

I've never heard the term "texturing" used before. What exactly is involved in texturing a lozenged finish? Dan

Member Brad Cancian has a very unique technique... airbrushing shadows and and highlights on lozenge decals to look like varnished fabric in scale. Thats right folks you saw it first here on the Aerodrome.

Also in reference to the "Most Memorable Builds..." thread spoken of earlier there are very fine examples of other builders attempting the same type of executions on painted fabric surfaces. I particularly like some of the east European variations on simulated wood and fabric surfaces. When using painting as a medium, giving visual references to different surfaces is called texturing.

curtisswright · 26 April 2006, 06:23 AM

All good points here. It has been said on this thread that it is up to the modeler to "pinpoint" what point in service the aircraft is to be depicted. They did not come from the factory weathered, but factory fresh.

A nice diorama might be titled "Taking Delivery" showing an old worn out 1 1/2 Strutter and a "factory fresh" camel being unloaded from a wagon of some sort.

I always like to keep weathering subtle, but wind up going overboard by the end of the build. How many of you have used pastels?

Nice Photo of Old Rhinebeck's 28!!!!!!

Copperhead · 26 April 2006, 07:40 AM

Ok, I'm curious. I can weather P-40's from Australia through the Phillipines. I can even do a fair job on Bong or McGuires P-38's. I have a few color pics to get some clues from. But what colors do I use to weather a SPAD or Fokker? I realize the mud, dust etc. But what about the oil/castor oil and such. I don't have any color pics as reference? John

StephenLawson · 26 April 2006, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Copperhead

Ok, I'm curious. I can weather P-40's from Australia through the Phillipines. I can even do a fair job on Bong or McGuires P-38's. I have a few color pics to get some clues from. But what colors do I use to weather a SPAD or Fokker? I realize the mud, dust etc. But what about the oil/castor oil and such. I don't have any color pics as reference? John

Greetings Copperhead; The patina acquired by rotaries is pretty specific. I used a Translucent "dark carmel' wash.

Copperhead · 26 April 2006, 10:42 PM

Sounds doable. I'll give it a shot on this "old style" HC Camel and see how it looks. It's just for the kid next door and probably won't make it thru the day. John

27 April 2006, 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StephenLawson

Greetings Copperhead; The patina acquired by rotaries is pretty specific. I used a Translucent "dark carmel' wash.

Howdy Steven,

First, greetings from a fellow Coloradoan

Second....I don't mean to sound like I'm straight off the 'short' bus, but...could you maybe give us your precise recipe for your "Dark Camel" wash?....?

Many thx in advance.

Tread.

StephenLawson · 27 April 2006, 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Treadhead

Howdy Stephen, First, greetings from a fellow Coloradoan

Second....I don't mean to sound like I'm straight off the 'short' bus, but...could you maybe give us your precise recipe for your "Dark Camel" wash?....? Many thx in advance. Tread.

Greetings Treadhead, glad to see you here. The mix is about 2 parts black to 2 parts Chesnut brown to 6 parts thinner. Airbrushing or brush works. Don't scrub it on let it flow like a wash should. Try it on scrap before doing the kit. All the best.

27 April 2006, 04:18 PM

Howdy JackFlas....oops, Stephen.

Many thx for sharing your recipe with me {us}, it helps a great deal. I am one of those..."just A-B-C me at first" kinda chaps, but once that's done I can generally run with it.
As to being 'here', it has been quite enjoyable. After having built a decent collection of WWII-on stuff, my focus has turned to much more historic subject matter...string bags being one of them. I am also quite interested in Landships, and all earlier versions of armoured vehicle.
I have admired your superb WWI aircraft work on another site, as well as your dedication to the subject. So having your ear for a moment is an honour pard'

Again, thx for the info.

warm regards,

Tread.

davecww1 · 27 April 2006, 07:36 PM

For me the best way to simulate castor oil weathering is to use Testors rubber (in the small square glass bottle) mixed with Testors clear gloss laquer and some regular enamel thinner to give it a watery wash. The clear gloss helps it to look like oil, should be shiney, not dull when dry. I use a thin wash over the engine cylinders, and a little thicker inside the cowling and on the bottom of the fuselage on a rotaty powered aircraft.
Don't forget, this castor oil was only used in rotary engines, so any German fighter powered by a Mercedes/BMW would not use the castor oil, but a standard oil, which probably would not be the brown color. Floquil oily black mixed with clear gloss and thinner is best to use for a wash on inline engines.
Dave