Fokker Streaky Green

[Trackpad]

Hello,All,

So, here I am, closing in on the date when I start the streaky green camouflage on my Roden 1/32nd triplane. I've been experimenting with rake brushes, regular brushes, thinners, paint... and not much good is happening.

Either the paint/thinner mix is too thick, giving a slight but noticeable "ridge" to the streaks; or it is too thin, allowing the paint to level out into a more or less uniform thin green. I'm using Xtracolor enamel, thinned with lacquer thinner (hot and fast), Testor's thinner (medium) or Parks mineral spirit (cool and slow). Another challenge is what I would call the "parallel effect" of the streaking: the difficulty of keeping the streaks fairly parallel over the wing span or fuselage length.

I have a few other ideas to try, but I'd like to know if anyone has had success and, if so, what was/is his/her technique in detail. Any ideas gratefully received. Thanks in advance!

Gary

[Lyle]

Hi Gary,
Truly the method isn't difficult, but your paint has to be the right consistency. Other modelers get good results with different methods, but this is what I've done.

I start with a basecoat of linen, letting it dry thoroughly, then add a good covering of your olive green or brown on the wing--no streaks. I also use acrylics for the ease of cleanup. Then I take a 3/8" or 1/2" brush that is dry and start to add the streaks by removing paint. I keep wiping the brush dry and going over the wing/fuselage/tailplane until it's starting to look good. Sometimes I add a wee bit of water to the brush to get things to flow a bit smoother. The idea is to work with it while it's wet. I think a lot of modelers use enamels and get great results as well, like the Jedi Master Modeler Stephen Lawson, who could use Krylon on his models and make them look good.

This is what I used on this 1/48 DML Fokker--not Krylon, but Polly-S acrylics. Remember the Nike ads--just do it.

[jumpinjan]

The Triplanes didn't use green, they had a OD streaked finished over CLD. There are references that document it that I could point you to.

[Trackpad]

Hi, Lyle and Jan,

First off, to Lyle: that's a great idea: do it in reverse! I'll give this idea a trial flight as soon as I can. In fact, I think that I'll shoot the CDL, then give it a coat of clear acrylic for some protection, then shoot the olive, then do the streaking. I'll be trying a couple of thinners to see which does the best streaking with the least effect on the CDL. Super idea: thanks again!

Now, to Jan. I expect to use the Xtracolor offerings of the various Olive Drabs: X111 - FS14084, X112 - ANA613 (WW2), and X113 - WW2 Faded Olive Drab. The first two will be the main application, with touches of X113 added here and there to highlight. If you can post a few of the references you cite, I'd surely like to read them for interest's sake.

To all other visitors: if there are other opinions, techniques, suggestions or ideas out there, I'm only too happy to hear about them. Thanks in advance!

Best Regards,

Gary

[RED BARON RETURNS]

You know guys i'm in the middle of a Red Baron's Fokker Dr1 425/17.
Now we all know it's going to be red.But did the streaking show up on the red too ?
I thought maybe the red was painted on thin.
I was thinking more on the line of painting it olive first than spray a clear coat.
Then hit the red and lightly use my dry brush to make my streaking.
What you make of the red Dr1?
J.P.

[jumpinjan]

German Army Air Force Camouflage Systems
Paragraph #3

This photo is very close to the range of light, medium and dark variations

[mgtaylor]

I just started my Roden too and I am doing this scheme as well. I have some test shots I took but I can't post them till tomarow nite.

I started by primeing all the parts still on the sprue with a Very thinned Light Grey Flat enamel. I sprayed the upper surfaces with MK German CDL.

After drying I used a Clear Flat Coat. (I had some Micro Sol Clear Flat Handy but I wanted to try MM Clear FLat Enamel) After drying

First I ran a line of Tamyia Model Tape Chordwise across one rib to set the angle I wanted and then I took a 3/16 Flat Brush and began Dry Brushing MK Fokker Factory Olive. It darkened on Drying and I was able to take out a little squiggly streaks I had made on a second Dry brushing coat.

I think it came out right. I compared it to a few photos on Fokker Dd I http://www.fokkerdr1.com/ . I'll post my pics later and you can see for yourself.

[brian riedel]

Howdy,

Here's a couple of shots of my Roden 1/72 Dr. I to illustrate my "wet" method of streaking. You'll need whatever linen and acryllic green color you prefer, plus a small pan of water.

Step 1, paint the base linen color and let dry.
Step 2, apply a streak of undiluted green in the direction your refrences indicate.
Step3, quickly dip the brush in the water and, starting in the middle of the full strenghth green, apply the wet brush using the same stroke direction.
You want to brush until the green is almost gone.

Do this in sections so you get the light and dark areas seen in photos.
As always, practice on scrap plastic or unwanted parts first.

It's worked for me on a number of Dr. I's. Hope it helps someone.

Brian Riedel

[RED BARON RETURNS]

Hey Brian,
You made a really good looking Fokker Dr1 of LVR.
I'm doing the MVR 425/17 and i'm thinking the streakings must of
showed up a little when it was painted red.
Of all the Photo's i have seen of 425/17 it's too hard to tell but Tim West did a color print of one and i thought that has to be as close as one can get.
JP

[mgtaylor]

THose ALL look great ! Ok now I am a little shyshowing these off considering the number of Professional builders we have here. I consider myself an "average" builder so I know anything I can get around anyone can do.

These digital photos came out so so. The Lighting varies a lot and dosen't show the true tint of these colors. The German CDL is a darker linien with almost a light tan-ish hint to it. It comes out really well contrasting with the Factory Olive.

Frist Streak Coat :


TO me one of the sercrets here is useing a "Flat" brush. I think that may help with the consistancy of the width of the strokes and dry brushing especialy when you move on the the Fuselage sides which are straight vertical in rows.

Second Streak Coat:






Here's an example of the Real THing ! You can see how the Factory Olive blends over the CDL to give a real camo effect. THe Wheel covers also show the straight CDL Color in the center.



You can see more detail enlarged if you click the "View Original Image Link"

From the Fokker DRI research site you can see how this technique really varied from ACFT to ACFT making it quite individual and each plane uniquie.