DR1 Engine Painting

theseeker · 22 August 2006, 03:46 PM

I recently purchased the Hasegawa 1/8 DR1. I originally airbushed the engine in a mixture of steel and silver, but I did not like it. I decided to go with semi-gloss black and dry brushing a mixture of steel and gray, but I am still not happy! I would appreciate any suggestions before I go any farther.
I have attached a link to my photo page where you can see the engine, my hobby room and my technical advisor.

http://www.villagephotos.com/members...der_id=1736426

Ross_Moorhouse · 22 August 2006, 08:26 PM

This is how I did an engine. It may help you??

Quote:

First up I used Model
Master Metalizer Lacquer Aluminum Plate (in a spry can) to paint the engine block. The cylinders were then painted with Tamyia TS-6 Matt Black first. This did not dry matt at all. The wet weather here has not helped this. But not to worry as the engine will be weathered anyway. Then the bottom half of the cylinders were painted Model Master Jet Exhaust.

Ross_Moorhouse · 22 August 2006, 08:38 PM

Also helps if you can look at the real thing.

These are taken from http://www.wwi-models.org/Photos/Eng...sel/index.html

Oberursel Ur.II

and for those Dr.is fitted with 110 hp Le Rhône, 9 cylinder rotary...

But I am not sure if this is a 110hp one.

Taz · 22 August 2006, 09:17 PM

Ross- The engine you are looking at is Ur.II serial number 2968 from the National Museum of the USAF. It was originally fitted to Fokker E.V 108/18 and apparently was brought into the US from Germany post WW-II. It was not fitted to one of the E.Vs/D.VIIIs tested after WW-I in the US at McCook Field in Dayton, OH.

Late model Ur.IIs like this had steel intake tubing, but nearly all the Ur.IIs fitted to the Dr.I had copper intake tubing and should be painted that way. Langdon Badger and I have been unable to figure exactly which engine changed to stainless steel from copper, but MvR's 425/17 used copper tubing and it was serial number 2478 and this is 2968, so somewhere in there. In service the engines did not look so shiny because of castor oil staining. A photo of MvR's engine in Ferko's Richthofen from the back side looks much darker. It is easy to tell the 80 hp Le Rhones from the 110/120 hp Le Rhones because the intake pipes are on the front of the engine on 80 hp engines instead of on the back as on 110/120 hp engines. Oberursel never produced an 80 hp version of the Le Rhone 9. All the 80 hp Le Rhones had copper intake tubing, as does the one in the other photo you posted.

Le Rhones transitioned to stainless steel from copper much earlier than Oberursel, so a Dr.I fitted with a Le Rhone had a better chance of having stainless steel intake tubes than an Oberursel. Another data point is that both prototype Triplanes F.I 102/17 and 103/17 had Le Rhones with copper intake piping. The Oberursel Ur.II had not finished qual testing in August when the two F.Is came out.

Since I buried you in too much detail, we will leave how you visually identify an Oberursel vs a LeRhone for another time.

Incidentally, the web site you posted has a an Oberursel U.III, a Gnome based, twin row, 160 hp, 14 cylinder engine from the Fokker E.IV and D.III misidentified as a Ur.III. The Ur.III (r for Le Rhone) was an 11 cylinder, large diameter, single row rotary of 145 hp or so. You might contact the webmaster.

Taz
Terry Phillips

theseeker · 23 August 2006, 06:53 AM

Thanks for the help guys, guess I will repaint it again.

theseeker · 23 August 2006, 03:13 PM

I would appreciate suggestions for the mixture of colors to use, especially any "metal" color that can be buffed. I have decided upon a new factory look.
TIA.

mgtaylor · 24 August 2006, 11:50 AM

I have a Williams Bros LeRhone 1/6 Scale I am working on. Ive based coated it with MM Aluminun Plate and Futrured it but I have a Set of Alclads and their washes and I am about to get busy playing around. If it turns Out I'll post em.

THe Obseral Picutre above IS a GOOD Refernce even if though the other Model Rotories used Copper Intake Pipes. It is a good reference of an Engine NEVER RUn straight out of the Factory Crate and ready for breaking in.

It is god place to start? I'll post here what I intend on using for reference to attempt to match with these ALcalds and Alcalds washes. You really have to CLick on the View Orignal Photo to see in detail the Variations in Heat Stressed Metal and the Burnt Oil on the Cooling fins to get a good look.

Best of everything yours Mike

www.misterkitusa.com

theseeker · 24 August 2006, 02:37 PM

I have decided to give it the factory fresh look. I will probably opt for a color that can be buffed.

Terry_Crisp · 25 August 2006, 06:55 AM

Seeker,
The best metallics I have found are the Alclad Lacquer. they Look like the metal thy purport to be and can be buffed. Although expensive and not the easiest to work with, requiring a gloss black undercoat among other things they are unquestionably the best metallic around and have a variety of options.
Aluminum
polished aluminum
white aluminum
steel
stainless steel
burnt steel
etc.
their address is;
Alclad
501 S. Falkenberg Rd. D6-D7
Tampa Fl 33619

1 813 643-1232
Hoe this helps,
Terry

theseeker · 25 August 2006, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry_Crisp

Seeker,
The best metallics I have found are the Alclad Lacquer. they Look like the metal thy purport to be and can be buffed. Although expensive and not the easiest to work with, requiring a gloss black undercoat among other things they are unquestionably the best metallic around and have a variety of options.
Aluminum
polished aluminum
white aluminum
steel
stainless steel
burnt steel
etc.
their address is;
Alclad
501 S. Falkenberg Rd. D6-D7
Tampa Fl 33619

1 813 643-1232
Hoe this helps,
Terry

Terry,

Thanks for the tip! Fortunately we have a great hobby shop in Houston that carries Alclad and I picked up a few bottles today.

Rocky