Rigging a 1/72nd scale Aircraft

I'm thinking of using Metel Wire for the rigging of my1/72nd Sopwith Stutter,how's it done?

AJ

[Lufbery]

There are a bunch of different approaches to rigging.

I used two types of materials for rigging my 1/74 scale MB-2:


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The control wires are very fine wire I salvaged from a ceiling fan light switch. The rigging wires are smoke-colored invisible thread (I think it's actually nylon, sort of like monofilament) that I got at a fabric store.

What I did was drill holes part way through the underside of the upper wing, and the whole way through the lower wing. I then anchored the invisible thread in the upper wing with super glue, which I then sprayed with a quick hit of accelerator. Then I would thread the "rigging wire" through the hole in the bottom wing, but a little tension on it by clamping it with my reverse tweezers (they are squeezed to open), apply super glue, and accellerator.

Then I'd repeat for freaking ever.

Actually, with the help of a ballcap with LED lights in the bill, I was able to do four or five wires in a half hour or so.

If I were using wire instead of thread, I'd probably use the same approach with drilling blind holes in the top and full holes in the bottom. If the wire is thin enough, it can be gently pulled taut almost like thread.

Regards,

[nigelrayner]

Now you're asking the tough questions. Depends on what you mean by "metal wire" - there are a couple of types. Some folks use rigid wire (like thin guitar strings) but these would be too thick for 1/72 (they're a bit big for 1/48). I don't know if there are other sources of in scale rigid wire for 1/72 - perhaps surgical wire or the ceramic wire from Small Parts. Others use the wire from audio leads - open up an old wire and strip the individual copper threads out. Roll these flat using a ruler, paint, cut to length and then secure in place using white glue (PVA glue).

I use heat stretched sprue. I measure the approximate length of the wire using compasses. I cut the sprue to this (too long) length, secure one end to the plane using white glue and then trim the other end using a pair of very sharp, small scissors. The beauty of using sprue is that it is light so the white glue holds it in place easily at one end while you can move the other end around, trimming it to length. Once you have the right length you then secure the other end with white glue. This method would work with the audio wire (which is light and easily cut with scissors) but not with the rigid wire which would be too tough to cut in place on the model. I don't know how others do this. You'll find out there are many ways to skin this cat.

Cheers,

Nigel

[John Masters]

Oh boy, this is a good one. Go to the WW1 Modeling page for hints and tips. There is some good stuff there. I prefer to use a mix of stainless steel, stretched sprue, and mono...all for different purposes. Drilling lots of holes is a great way to get superior results, but make sure you a supply od #80 bits in stock. I also measure distances with a set of interior calipers and then cut .005 stainless from Smallparts to fit. It adheres very well with white glue, so one can resposition, etc...without much bother or mess.

Try Dennis Uglano's method. It works great for mono, on any build and especially for 72nd. I might try it on 48th...


From the Factory on the hill,
John