Filler/putty

[berman]

Kaiser Bill suggested a mix of baking soda and super glue. Never use this combination as it is quite unstable and I have reports of it actually exploding.

[Rob_Owens]

Bob, No specific brand of CA/Superglue; the "medium" viscosity allows a longer working time & more even consistency. Thin sets too fast; thick, too slowly.
I pour the talc onto a vinyl-type (coffee can) lid, drop the CA into it, & "bring in" a little talc at a time, to the consistency of slightly runny toothpaste.
One of the best properties of this mixture is, should you need multiple layers, it won't soften what you've already put down. You shouldn't need multiple layers, though, as it doesn't shrink & there's no waiting for the solvent to "gas-out" like petrol-based fillers.
Experiment with it on some scrap & I think you'll like it. It even works on resin!

[tengew]

I used the squadron green putty but I applied it with a bush dipped in MEK
I squeezed out a bit on a glass plate and mixed with the brush till it was the right viscosity
It dries and glues at the same time the down side you need a respirator to do it

[davecww1]

I tried something new last time I went to the local hobby shop. It's made by Gunze I believe (hard to tell since the label is all in Japanese) and called Mr. disolved putty. You stir it up and use a paintbrush to apply it to the model seams, it dries in a couple of hours but I let it dry overnight since it has a strong solvent. Kind of like a pre mixed combination of Testors Liquid cement and Squadron white putty I believe.
Works good.
Another good putty I have used is 3M blue spot putty (available at most auto parts stores) this is used for real cars bodywork, but works great on plastic models as well.
Dave

[buzz1941]

It will absorb moisture from the air and "grow" at a later date, sometimes years later. Use something stable. I use resin grinding dust.