Filler/putty

[bobs_buckles]

Hello all,

Would you kindly souls please let me know what you consider to be the best filler/putty. I use fine milliput, but find I get sinkage when the putty cures.

All help is much appreciated.
Bob Von Buckle

[Romani]

I have discovered an alternative to the traditional, and much loathed Tamiya great putty.

It's plastic putty, easier to apply as it doesn't cling so tenaciously to implements, and soluble in plain water, so you can remove the excess and clean tools with ease.


I used to swear at Tamiya, now I swear by this plastic putty. My brand is Vallejo from Spain, but I am sure there must be other manufacturers.

[Sreiko]

Tamya Tamya Tamya- one and only!!! Miliput is 2K epoxy? Different area of use

[tdpatt]

I always use super glue gel,have never had any problems.

[bobs_buckles]

Originally Posted by tdpatt

I always use super glue gel,have never had any problems.

Thanks for the quick responses

Do you accelerate the gel super glue then sand? Or do you let it cure and sand?

Milliput is a two part putty, non corrosive and can be made into any consistency. Cleans up with water.

Cheers lads.
Bob

[Rob_Owens]

roughly equal parts (by mass) medium viscosity CA & talcum (baby's bum) powder. It doesn't shrink (don't over-apply), doesn't soften even the thinnest plastic (I used it to correct some "overly enthusiastic" sanding on a 1/32 Falcon vac Fok.D.VIII), sands in 15 min. or 15 days (doesn't get harder the longer it sets), doesn't require accellerator, doesn't give off toxic fumes while curing, and since it's a "composite matrix," actually adds structural strength when trying to fill large gaps. Best of all, its CHEAP!

[mgtaylor]

Here's One. Very Non-traditional Source for Hobby accessory. But if you think about it who would have thought to Airbrush Acrylic FLoor Wax (Future) on your kit ?

I got this from a Modellers Tip Colum. It is Porclin Chip Repair Liquid. It is a thick soupy white material which dries fast, and hardens wihtout shrinking at all. It sands like resin and takes paint like the real plastic. Very easy to work with I use a splatulum or Credit Card edge. It it like concrete though. Once exposed to air it starts thickening and starting to set.

I forget if I ve tried to thin it. I have two bottles (15-ish each ?) and one whihc id half empty has gotten a little too thick to work with in storage. I'll try some actone ot thin and tell you the results ? Otherwise thinning it has never been an issue. It is naturally thin in the first palce.

Yours Mike

PORC-A-FILLER

http://www.shophometrends.com/defaul...cd2=1174531546


AFTER:

BEFORE:

[Kaiser Bill]

I use several different fillers. Nitrostan (glazier's putty), Squadron Green putty, and superglue (CA) with baking soda. I've even used stretched sprue and liquid glue as filler.

[Wind In The Wires]

Squadron white putty.

Mr. Surfacer.

Or WhiteOut typewriter correction fluid which is what was used to fill these sink marks;

[bobs_buckles]

Originally Posted by Rob_Owens

roughly equal parts (by mass) medium viscosity CA & talcum (baby's bum) powder. It doesn't shrink (don't over-apply), doesn't soften even the thinnest plastic (I used it to correct some "overly enthusiastic" sanding on a 1/32 Falcon vac Fok.D.VIII), sands in 15 min. or 15 days (doesn't get harder the longer it sets), doesn't require accellerator, doesn't give off toxic fumes while curing, and since it's a "composite matrix," actually adds structural strength when trying to fill large gaps. Best of all, its CHEAP!

Rob,
That is a superb idea!
Cheers mate... I'm off to see my local powder man
What brand of glue would you recommend to go with bum powder?

Bob