The Aerodrome Home Page
Aces of WWI
Aircraft of WWI
Books and Film
The Aerodrome Forum
Sign the Guestbook
Help
Links to Other Sites
Medals and Decorations
The Aerodrome News
Search The Aerodrome
Today in History
The Aerodrome Forum

Learn how to remove ads

Go Back   The Aerodrome Forum > WWI Aviation > Models


Models Topics related to WWI aircraft models


Welcome to The Aerodrome Forum, an online community where you can discuss WWI aviation with thousands of other members from around the world. To gain full access to the Forum you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:
  • Post messages and search the Forum

  • Privately communicate with other members

  • Participate in live chat sessions other members

  • View images by talented aviation artists in our Gallery

  • Buy, sell or trade items in our Classified Ads
All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

Closed Thread
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 30 October 2007, 02:38 AM #11 (permalink)
Two-seater Pilot
 
Bob_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 286
Amazing work as usual, Brad! Keep the build pics coming.
__________________
"Elijah was reputed to be the patron saint of aviators, but as he went to Heaven in a chariot of fire, this was something we weren't too keen about. "
Kiffen Rockwell
Bob_D is offline  
Old 2 January 2008, 11:28 AM #12 (permalink)
Observer
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: on a sailboat in Annapolis
Posts: 1
 
I'm also working on one of these. I use PrismaColor pencils on a khaki (tan) base for my wood effect. I'm very impressed with yours though. I'd like to ask a couple of questions that I have not been able to satisfactorily resolve. First, all photographs that I have seen show this craft with an upper wing mounter radiator yet the kit furnishes the ear types.
Which is proper for later 1917 losenge camouflage aircraft?
If wing mounted, was the radiator mounted on center or offset to starboard?
Secondly, was the single spandau or dual mount machine gun armament more common on later models?
One last nit-picking question. Was the firewall metal clad or wad it plywood?

Best regards,
Dan Smith
W1NDFALL is offline  
Old 5 January 2008, 09:46 PM #13 (permalink)
Scout Pilot
 
Brad Cancian's Avatar
Contributor
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 447
 
Minor disaster on this project yesterday... I was playing around with more thinned oils trying to get some variation between panels of the wood grain, thinking "the first lot of oils are well and truly dry, I can't hurt em, no need to clear coat first" .... wrong....! The thinned oils softened the dry oils and I lifted a little bit of the original wood finish off on the port side under the cockpit - the more I tried to clean it up and paint over it, the worse it got. Then it started happening on other areas over the airframe...

End result, I cut my losses and stripped the wood grain back to the bare plastic... arg!! *Breathe, place the model back onto the table...* Lesson learned - always clear coat.

I am definately not immune to disasters - at least this will give me a fresh start on the wood grain again...!!

Sigh!

BC
__________________
Brad Cancian is offline  
Old 6 January 2008, 05:22 PM #14 (permalink)
Forum Ace
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 511
 
So Brad, you are Human afterall. I am dissapointed... I will have to revise the order of the Gods in my Pantheon!
What do you use to thin your oils? I use White spirit my self and yes, I have found that it will not only strip already placed oils that are not quite dry, but will also effect lacquers and humbrol enamels...
I placed a coat of Polyscale Clear over the Struts on my BE after I had oiled them and then still found that every thing needed a week to harden up enough to handle the parts.
I am finding now that modelling is as much about discovery and learning as it is building kits (and our own character).

Yep, put in down, walk away from it and come back after a nice calming cup of tea... or maybe something a little stronger.

Where are the photos of this exercise?

Cheers,

Hugh
MerlinV is offline  
Old 6 January 2008, 08:34 PM #15 (permalink)
Ace of Aces & Old Bone
 
StephenLawson's Avatar
Contributor
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colorado
Posts: 8,860
 
Been there - done that. I snapped a paintbrush in my gritting teeth.
__________________
WWI-N-Plastic.com
StephenLawson is offline  
Old 7 January 2008, 05:44 AM #16 (permalink)
Observer
 
guitarlute101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: West Virginia, USA
Posts: 63
 
Brad,

Great wood paint effect. One of the things I find hard about building a new model is deciding which painting technique to use on a particular part. Thanks for sharing your pics and tips.

Mark
guitarlute101 is offline  
Old 10 January 2008, 08:12 PM #17 (permalink)
Scout Pilot
 
Brad Cancian's Avatar
Contributor
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 447
 
Ok, let's try again...

I tried to add variation to the panels, and also go for a heavily shellacked look - hence the deep yellow/orange finish - whilst trying to let some of the grain peek through...

Old (pre disaster):




New:




There is aspects of both that I like, and that I don't like... oh well, the experiment will continue on my next kit but for now, I think I will leave it be to avoid any further disasters!!!

BC
__________________
Brad Cancian is offline  
Old 2 February 2008, 09:57 PM #18 (permalink)
Scout Pilot
 
Brad Cancian's Avatar
Contributor
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 447
 
A minor update to prove I am still going with this project - major painting and decalling is now completed. I worked on toning down the "wood" with further oversprays to make the fuselage look heavily varnished:





Everything is still OOB except for the lozenge decals - I did not really like the kit lozenge decal colours (they were quite pink) so I used some Pegasus naval lozenge instead - not sure if it is more accurate but I think it looks nicer. This stuff is very easy to use but is very thin and had a tendancy to curl up on itself but reacted well to microsol and was very firmly stuck to the model when dry. As the rib tapes on the real W4 were made from the same fabric and painstakingly matched to the wing hex patern, I tried to replicate the rib tapes through use of shading (masking over decals was particularly scary for me but due to the firm sticking power of the Pegasus decals, there were thankfully no problems at all ).



Feedback always welcome!

BC
__________________
Brad Cancian is offline  
Old 2 February 2008, 10:49 PM #19 (permalink)
Forum Ace
 
Scimitar's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Belgium
Posts: 673
Amazing work, Brad! I really like your plywood rendering!!!
Scimitar is offline  
Old 2 February 2008, 11:31 PM #20 (permalink)
Ace of Aces & Old Bone
 
StephenLawson's Avatar
Contributor
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colorado
Posts: 8,860
 
Greetings Brad;

If I were you I would use clear decal film for the ribtapes. It may get the job done your looking for. But it breaks that OOB thing. She is a fine build by the way. Most impressive.
__________________
WWI-N-Plastic.com
StephenLawson is offline  
Closed Thread

Bookmarks



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:45 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2
Copyright ©1997 - 2009 The Aerodrome