Modeling Mediums 103

[StephenLawson]

Since white metal parts have been a topic here I'm including a link to another recent question & answer thread here.

...broken YABB link...

[StephenLawson]

'...Cramer Craft and Airframes produced vacuform kits using a male mold process resulting in a lack of detail on the outer surfaces.

vonLemming is absolutely correct. *vacuform kits were once the only way for 1/72 & 1/48 builders to pick up those unique WWI aircraft that the *'Big Boys' wouldn't produce. Now as we have entered the new century, vacuforms tend to be passe to most modelers. *While they seem to have been replaced by the use of resin/ rubber vulcanizing or low pressure, short-run injection molding there are still several superb companies that manufacture high quality vacuform kits. *Long live multimedia !!!

It was vacuform kits that kept alive the interest in modeling subjects of First World War aviation. *Then the ‘Cottage Industries’ started moving steadily away from their beginnings with vacuforms to small short run injection molding kits. Veeday, Merlin (both run by Vagn Espensen), Pegasus/ Blue Max (Chris Gannon), Classic Plane (D. Schörsch), Formaplane of London, By-Planes (Pamela Veal), Rareplanes of Canada, *AirFrame (John Tarvin), CramerCraft and countless others all gave us a steady stream of ‘historic plastic.’ *One of the premier companies at this time was of course Contrail, part of Gordon Sutcliffe Productions, Somerset, England.

[StephenLawson]

Answer to Pop Quiz - WWI in Plastic. *Way before Albatros Publications Ltd. Great Auk pub. walked many of us old guys through the history of these kits and their developments. *

Next to Rig or not to rig that is the question... *Rigging multi-plane aircraft models is not as difficult as it may seem. *The choices are easy. You can use either monofilament or fine wire sections. *It depends on how long your strand runs are going to be. * The best choice in 1/48 and smaller for strand runs over 1 ½ inches is monofilament. These come in various thickness’ and can be purchased in department store sewing centers or in the *fishing /sports department. *For 1/48 and smaller scale 5-8 mil is good. *For 1/32 and larger start with 5-6 lbs test fishing line. *

First of all leave the top wing upper surface and the lower wing under surface unfinished. Why you ask? *These are the areas that you need to apply glue to. *An open flat surface is easier to work with than the narrow area between the wings. *

Drill straight through the wing next to the strut at the appropriate angle. *There should be two holes for each strand. Note also that one hole can possibly hold upto 5 strands. *The key to working with monofilament is start by the upper cabane strut locations and move out and down with your strands. *Used spring action clothes pins to clip on the strands once their through the lower wing area. *One clothes pin for one strand. *This pulls the strand(s) tight and then you just put one drop of thin type super glue in the hole. *Don’t use metal hemostats as they can over stress the small 5-8 mil strands and after your complete it will go slack and heat application won’t tighten it permanently.

When your finished rigging use a sharp #11 blade and clip all ends of the secured strands. Then scrape any glue spots off the plastic and finish to suite your chosen profile...

[StephenLawson]

The other choice is ( I prefer blackened brass) fine wire. For 1/48 and smaller try .006-.008. For larger scales try .015-.020 and up. Brass is best choice for short runs of 1½ and smaller. Brass has weight and will tend to sag over a period of time. Turnbuckles can be manufactured in scale, it just take patience. In smaller scales you can simply replicate turnbuckles with an application of thicker gel super glue then paint when dry. One thought to finish is keep relative scale in mind when working with rigging.

[StephenLawson]

in the area of working with resins the first concern about bonding is that resins won't 'weld' like polystyrene with capalary action liquid glues. Prepping the surface for paint and cyano glue are the main concerns for successful applications for resin parts. Also note that with resns there are 'hard resins and soft resins.'

Pop Quiz: What was the first book available that outlined the histories of companies that produced WWI subjects?

[drIace]

Answer to Pop Quiz:

WW I in Plastic, by Brad Hansoen 1979, printed 500 copies


Life is short, no gets out alive, enjoy it.

[drIace]

OOPS, did not carefully read the previous question, nor see the earlier post in regards to the book !!!

[StephenLawson]

drIace; No worries mate just seing if anybody would catch the double posting. Heh heh!!!

[topgun56]

HUH

[StephenLawson]

Consider these questions.
What is your biggest fear about working with brass etched pieces? What is the advantage about using brass etched pieces?