Model Construction 102

[StephenLawson]

Answer to Pop Quiz: Pop Quiz:What must you have to build a model? - a model that you have an interest to build. *Remember students this is a first year course now lets get back to the Basics.
II.Basics, basics, basics!!!!!!!!!!
* * *A. * Erasing seams, fill holes, alignment and thin down edges.
* * * * * * 1. Protect the detail you want with masking tape.
* * *B. * Truing to Square.
* * * * * * 1. While real aircraft took abuse the only reason for twisted wings, empennage or etc. is a wreck. Keep it straight and plumb.
* * * * * * 2. Lego block jigs. Child’s Play that works.
* * * * * * 3. Optivisor, magnify your work and you make your problems small.
* * * * * * 4. Use the kit instructions to document what you have done, will do, wont do.
* * * * * * * * *a. Color code your step with pastel high-lighters. *Pink=complete, yellow=delete Green=scratch-build/alter & blue=replace with existing kit part. * * * * *
* * * *C. * Relative Scale.
* * * * * * *1. Is everything on the model in relative scale or proportional to the whole piece?
* * * * * * *2. Photo reference is the answer. *Start at the library, aviation specialty stores the internet or hobby shops. *Their books and magazines and after market decals should get you started

[stringbags4ever2]

The Dicta Boelke of Modeling. Should be hung above every modeling bench. Amen.

[Michael]

Modelling is like writing, the time has to be right. I also think you have to decide what you want. You can do an AMS special, a superior OOB, or a vanilla OOB - it's whatever gives you pleasure and relaxation.

I never was a super-detailer, I used to do conversions, and barring an airbrush my painting skills are pretty good (I did lead figures as well).

But you also have to keep your hand in. When I get around (finally) to doing a kit, it's not going to be the best, partly because of time (I don't even have the time for running) and partly because I haven't finished a kit in 15 years. If I ever get around to Cousin Antonin's SPAD (Glencoe) I will take the time on that, but that's personal.

And I hate it when my wife puts the boots to me.

[topgun56]

My Ex called them toys and my cats called them good to fly.

[stringbags4ever2]

Michael, Michael, Michael...... mon pauvre vieux!! Quinze ans!! That's way too long to wait to do a model!! Time to jump into the waters, monsieur! Also, if I may make a suggestion, you might want to shell a few more francs for a Special Hobby SPAD for your cousin Antonin's plane. It's gotten rave reviews for detail and you'd be proud to build it. Bon chance!

[StephenLawson]

Piece by piece going from nose to tail helps you examine the over all proportion and type of modifications that you want to attempt.

Propellers can be laminated from light & dark woods and carved to shape. Even painting the kit item to simulate the laminations is relatively easy.

Motors should have details like wiring, nuts & bolts. *Various shades of metal is a subtle effect that can be very convincing. *Don't go too far with the dirt & grime simulations unless your dealing with a diorama where its appropriate.

For cockpits, planning is the whole key. Often sidewalls are too thick and interior pieces are jammed together that in reality were separated. You may need to carve out the cockpit interior for better simulations.

Fuselage/ Wings are critical and need to be represented accurately. *Achieving wood grain simulation and Fabric Character in scale is another hurdle for building a unique model. Most often the manufacturers do a reasonable job of replicating these concerns but may need to be toned down by gentle sanding as they tend to be overstated. The reason for this is the manufacturer try's to envision the piece as finally being painted and accentuating the details will allow them to be prominent even under a thick coat of paint.

Even wheels need attention. Kit items always have that annoying seam but are not as difficult to deal with as some might lead you to believe. To use it as is with an airbrush go to an art or office supply store and pick up a circle template. To brush paint it use a 01 or 00 brush and paint the outer rim first then fill in the rest to the center. Then shoot the center with the circular template. You can paint them in 15 minutes and make people think it took hours. Also if your machine is to be displayed parked note the angle of the tires. Many are slightly toed in at the top.

[StephenLawson]

Painting or its application tends to fend off younger modelers. The old Revell and Airfix knew this and all of their old line of 1/72 kits were in colored plastic. For that matter so did Aurora. Today each paint application system acrylics vs enamels. has its own pros & cons.

Once you learn to work with acrylics you will find that they are worth the time spent. Concerning flats vs gloss in smaller scales I tend to use very little gloss unless its to put down a uniform surface for decal purposes. I'm a firm believer in the flat to semi gloss look for aircraft kits.

Sooner or later you should buy an airbrush. The simpler the operation the better. Brush painting is an art form in and of itself. The consistency of paint should always flow well from the brush. *Keep a clean cap full of thinner nearby. *When the paint gets a little too thick to flow right, dip the tip your brush in the clean thinner.

Use the paint company's recommended thinner for the paint you have chosen. I have my paint bottles in a rack on their side and I turn them ½ turn about once a week. The color has been applied to the tops of the bottle cap so they can be readily identified. Avoid contamination with other solvents.

Next Rigging. *Pop Quiz: Name three reasons why do some paints gel up after only a few uses?

[Barker]

here's some guesses, Prof:
-some cure rather than dry, so leaving the lid off is a bad idea, while working
-once opened, air is introduced into the paint bottle and it's downhill from there, so leaving the lid off is avoidable, but not much help.
-contaminants introduced from the brush contribute to the act of curing or drying, so pouring from the bottle and carefully wiping the rim is better than brush as ladle approach.

[StephenLawson]

Pop Quiz: Name three reasons why do some paints gel up after only a few uses?
1. Contaminates
2. Lid off for too long.
3. The lack of a good seal between the lid and the cap. Thanks Barker * *

Rigging multi-plane aircraft models is not as difficult as it may seem. The choices are easy. You can use either monofilament or fine wire sections. It depends on how long your strand runs are going to be. *The best choice in 1/48 and smaller for strand runs over 1 ½ inches is monofilament. These come in various thickness' and can be purchased in department store sewing centers or in the fishing /sports department. *For 1/48 and smaller scale 5-8 mil is good. For 1/32 and larger start with 5-6 lbs test fishing line.

First of all leave the top wing upper surface and the lower wing under surface unfinished. Why you ask? These are the areas that you need to apply glue to. An open flat surface is easier to work with than thenarrow area between the wings.

Drill straight through the wing next to the strut at the appropriate angle. There should be two holes for each strand. Note also that one hole can possibly hold upto 5 strands. The key to working with monofilament is start by the upper cabane strut locations and move out and down with your strands. Used spring action clothes pins to clip on the strands once their through the lower wing area. One clothes pin for one strand. This pulls the strand(s) tight and then you just put one drop of thin type super glue in the hole. Don't use metal hemostats as they can over stress the small 5-8 mil strands and after your complete it will go slack and heat application won't tighten it permanently.

When your finished rigging use a sharp #11 blade and clip all ends of the secured strands. Then scrap any glue spots off the plastic and finish to suite your chosen profile.

The other choice is ( I prefer blackened brass) fine wire. For 1/48 and smaller try .006-.008. For larger scales try .015-.020 and up. *Brass is best choice for short runs of 1½ and smaller. Brass has weight and will tend to sag over a period of time. Turnbuckles can be manufactured in scale, it just take patience. In smaller scales you can simply replicate turnbuckles with an application of thicker gel super glue then paint when dry.

Pop Quiz:What WWI Static Plastic model was the first to include rigging material? What year was it manufactured?

[Barker]

Revell's DR1? in '59?

All three of the 28's had it in '64, but I think there was one before them.