Airbrushing questions, again... - Page 2

dglewwe · 20 July 2008, 08:46 AM

"...what solvents you use to clean the badger?"

i've always used hardware store, off-the-shelf lacquer thinner...can't recall ever having to replace the seals/washers, but that could just be mad-cow. or maybe they used something different in the 70's...unobtainium or something...that was more robust (and most likely poisonous/cancer-causing)?

charlie bucket · 20 July 2008, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dglewwe

(qualifier: i've not used --or am at all familiar with-- the latest acrylics, so could easily be matched in this.)

Hope this isn't terribly off-topic, but they definitely have their problems, those acrylics. Pros and cons, as always.

Pros: I use them primarily because I'm cheap about buying thinner/solvent since I can use water, and I like the fact that they are non-toxic, so I can spray in my living room without major fume/smell/cancer hazards and without wearing a mask, provided I have an upturned cardboard box behind the spraying area and a large waterproof tent tarp on the floor. Gunze Aqueous also come in more or less from-the-bottle consistency for airbrushing, depending on the color(s). They can also be un-done very easily about 2 hours after a bad spray with a couple of paper towels and some water.

Cons: Probably the biggest bugaboo about acrylics is that they dry very, very quickly compared to enamels, although spraying with gloss colors, thinning them, or adding retarder (or all 3) will slow this down. I never need to though. They also don't grip the plastic as well as enamels, and you have fewer color options. Additionally, I think well-thinned enamels tend to spray much easier onto the plastic. Generally, I do think enamels are much better in some important ways, but I'm happy with what I can do with my acrylics, so I'm sticking with them, with the exception of artist's oils and Humbrol/Model Masters for non-airbrush purposes. I think using both is smart when doing any layering, since one's solvent won't intrude upon the other's.

dglewwe · 20 July 2008, 10:15 AM

continuing the off-topic tangent...

"...using both is smart when doing any layering, since one's solvent won't intrude upon the other's."

that's one of the reason i loved the (lacquer) floquil stuff --gave you three layers to work with (for weathering, markings, and such). that, and they were so nicely fine-ground...we used them almost exclusively in the model shop i worked at in st.louis (helped that the guys were model railroad buffs...). always used automotive-lacquers in other shops...at least until the turn of the century when they dropped out of sight...they were great.

John Masters · 20 July 2008, 12:31 PM

How about a Aztek AC 200 Airbrush Compressor, and a universal airbrush set in Model 360 dual feed, double action airbrush, 4' braided airhose, attachable jar with adapter and extra jar with cover. Sprays properly reduced enamels, lacquers and acrylics - pencil line to 2" pattern width?

Will this be an acceptable combo?

John

jumpinjan · 20 July 2008, 01:27 PM

If that's the Badger model 360, then yes, that's want you want. Don't get off track on versatility of spraying a 2" wide pattern. A larger airbrush like the Paasche Model VL will do that better.

cduckworth · 20 July 2008, 07:26 PM

I've been modeling for 35+ years and have owned several airbrushes. For ease of cleaning, simple to use I'd recommend the Paasche H series, get a H1 and H2 tip. If your modeling the complex WWII German or Japanese a/c scheme them a double action helps do those little 'squiggles' but for a PC10 or simple CDL the Paasche fits the bill.

John Masters · 21 July 2008, 12:29 AM

How about the Aztec compressor...Is that alright?

John

SteveS · 21 July 2008, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Masters

How about the Aztec compressor...Is that alright?

John

After looking at the prices of those hobby airbrush compressors, I’d take a ride to a local home center and check prices on larger ones before buying one as long as you have the room to store it. I think you might find a better deal there than in your local hobby shop or online. If possible, get a compressor with a tank. All that air held in reserve will eliminate any “pulsating” you might get when spraying with a large tip.

I’ve been using the same 1hp Sears twin cylinder compressor with a 12 gallon tank for about 25 years now. I let it pump up and can pretty much spray to my hearts content all day without it restarting and driving the family bonkers with the noise after the kids have gone to bed. It’s actually quieter than the old Badger diaphragm compressor I started with out way back. I know 1hp seems large but it can also perform many useful tasks around the house other painting models (excellent selling point for the wife). And a water separator is a must as even a small diaphragm compressor can ruin a paint job by spitting water on a humid day.

Just my two cents,

Salute,
Steve

ConradM · 21 July 2008, 01:31 PM

1/started with an Airfix "toy" one in the 1970s, when I was about 10, powered from car tyres inflated at the filling station 'cos my Dad couldn't run to propellant cans. Truly terrible.
2/On taking it all a bit more seriously, an Aztec boxed set, plastic body one. Awful. Wore out really fast. Not helped by backflushing which blew paint into the works and clogged the thing up. DON'T DO THAT WITH AZTECS!!! Invalidated the warranty by taking it apart to clean it, but from here (UK), that "free lifetime guarantee" isn't worth the postage.
3/Then got bought (Christmas), a Badger 200-G(Fine), good for small stuff and relatively easy to keep clean. Lots of disassembly. I now save it for enamels and fine line stuff, 'cos after the third needle and second fine tip for the Badger (reassembly damage and wear from cleaning acrylics out), I bought a...
4/Clarkes "DIY store" cheapie box set, £24? Less than a needle and tip for the Badger! Good to clean, simple, double action. It's not perfect but I think I'm now learning more than I'm cleaning and getting better results, which is what it's all about after all.
5/Acrylics are horrific with any airbrush, dry too fast and clog, making those dream intricate paint schemes nigh-on impossible. Tips to help this, screen-wash thinner (?), Aztec acrylic cleaner, get good at masking, live with it, use enamels, filter the paint through nylons?? Get a good compressor and I'd suggest a real cheap airbrush 'till you know your way around, and what features you want on the next one!
Conrad

John Masters · 22 July 2008, 01:11 AM

I have used the really cheap airbrushes that have the compressed air can, etc...I think from Testors. So I know some about the process, cleaning, and so forth. What I want is a better set of brushes and a constant flow compresser that is extremely small, portable, and stays on the floor when I move the hose around.

By small I mean no larger that a foot long...Small.

Thanks,
John