Weathering Techniques

I'm in the finishing stages of a HB W-29, and I'm looking for ways to make the plane come to life. It looks too "flat" w/o any weathering or "used" detailing.

Like, the exhaust louvers on the fuse side....seems they should be painted a dark color to represent the "inside" of the fuselage cavity (how do you paint that, anyway?), but also have some exhaust dust sprayed along the fuse side.

Is there a location that I could go to learn about these type of techniques, or is an appropriate thread topic? Seems tedious to mention each individual condition.....

Seems like it's such an important part of "completing" a model.

Thanks for your patience.....

john ernst

[Terry_Crisp]

Jernst,
To begin with, I use oil based paint simply because thats my preference so I cannot advise you on acrylics etc.
The way I paint the opening of vents and louvers is to make a wash of dark gray or other color if appropriate. I rub it on the area and then QUICKLY wipe it off with a clean rag. It will remain in the hollows. The open side of raised louvers merely requires that you wipe in the direction of the opening. You must experiment.
Hollowing out exhaust pipes and vents is very effective provided that the object is large enough to deal with.
Dry brushing a lighter value of the same hue is a good way to show wear.Dry brushing clear flat onto a gloss surface can show wear. Dry brushing is also a good way to show dirt but it is easy to use too dark a value. keep your rag handy for emergency do overs. Judicious dry brushing of metal colors can show wear on painted surfaces but is very easy to over do. Another tecnique is to underpaint your metal color then put on the painted color and carefully scrape the top coat off where you want to show wear, but this is also a dicey business.
There's my 2 cents worth.
HTH,
Terry

[StephenLawson]

This may be of some help.

Model Construction 102

I rub it on the area and then QUICKLY wipe it off

What do you use to rub it on with?

Thanks again for the thread link.

john ernst

make a wash of dark gray or other color if appropriate. I rub it on the area and then QUICKLY wipe it off with a clean rag.

Thanks Terry.

When you say "wash", I take that to mean a diluted mix of paint, vs. a watercolor pencil mixed in water and applied..or some other medium?

Do you use a brush to "rub" on the wash?

Thanks for your patience....pretty basic questions, I'm sure.

john ernst

[Terry_Crisp]

jernst,
You have it right. A wash is a dilution of the selected color. How thin you make is a matter of preference and what you are trying to do. I use a brush to rub on the paint then a rag to wipe it off. If you are doing exhaust or mud stains you do little if any wiping.
Another good use of the wash is to use a very thin wash of a dark gray to seperate details on guns and engines. The thin paint wil gather at the edges and outline the raised areas. Be discreet.
HTH
Terry

Thanks Terry. It does help.

john ernst

I tried adding a wash to my W-29 over the w/e.

I had problems getting it off before it dried. I applied it w/ a brush, then swiped it with a Q-tip, but most of it stayed on the model.

I was using a well diluted "black" wash (MM Acrylic) for the exhaust louvers on the fuselage sides. Should I be using a lighter base color?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks.

john ernst

[StephenLawson]

Try dipping the Q-tip in thinner (according to your paint type.) It just needs to be damp. before you 'clean up the wash. You may what to try a contrast colour of the base colour.

[Matt_Bittner]

What did you put the oil wash over? If it was over Future, it should come off - in some fashion - even after it almost dries completely. Which I have found is usually days. However, if you have put the oil wash over a flat overcoat, then less will come off, but most will still be removed.

Just as an FYI, it's best to use the best oils possible for this. I used to use the cheapest oils I could get a hold of, but when I had problems with control and the like, I switched completely over to Windsor Newton, and their best lines. This is one area not to skimp on.

Plus, if you don't like the smell of regular "turpentine", then by the product called Turpenoid. It has the same qualities without the horrible smell.

I have recently "oiled" the Amodel SPAD A.2 I've been working on, and even after a couple of weeks of the oils being on, I still have to be careful because I still remove the wash.