Applying Losenge Decals

I'm getting ready to apply the losenge decals to my Eastern Express W29....

I've never done full wing decals. What methods and/ or tricks should I be aware of when applying full wing losenge decals?

Some questions that come to mind....

- How do I decal over the projecting control horns?

- What do you do with the "extra" decal pattern that overhangs the edge of the plastic?

- How do you wrap a corner, i.e. wingtip?

etc,etc....

Thanks for your patience.....

john ernst

[Rob_Owens]

John, am not familiar w/ EE decals, so I don't know how pliable they are, but in general,
1) make sure the surface to be covered is smooth and glossy (cuts down on air bubbles)
2) make a paper pattern which follows, as closely as possible, the exact length from the horizontal center (upper/lower demarcation line) of the front of the wing to the rear, (the top loz will be a tad longer than the lower on account of the greater curvature), and cut the decal from the pattern. This will minimize the trimmimg yiu'll have to do to get a straight upper/lower demarcation line.
3) mark the pattern with control horn locations, and cut slits in the decal at these locs.
4) curves are best handled w/ a series of shallow slits cut in the decal at right angles to the radius of the curve, allowing the areas between the slits to overlap on themselves slightly.
5) be prepared to use multiple applications of setting solution on problem areas HTH, Rob

Thanks Rob. It helps alot.

I remember reading that a coat of "Future" helps to provide a good smooth surface.

The cutting around curves technique is very similar to the method I use when covering a balsa frame wing with tissue.

FWIW....the EE W29 decals, which I'm going to attempt to use, are cut to the shape of the wing. However, there is a slight margin of "clear" decal around the perimeter.

I'm guessing that this gets wrapped around the edge of the wing?

Thanks again.

john

* curves are best handled w/ a series of shallow slits cut in the decal at right angles to the radius of the curve, allowing the areas between the slits to overlap on themselves slightly.
* *

Rob....I'm guessing these slit cuts are done while the decal is still pliable?

john ernst

[Rob_Owens]

John, I usually cut the slits BEFORE the decal goes into the water, but I've also done the cuts with a double-edged razor blade (one edge wrapped in ducttape) after the decal starts to set, but before applying setting solution. The double edge blade is sharp enuf that it requires no cutting motion to go thru the decal; simply press down and rock the blade down over the curve of the wingtip. I'm not familiar with Naval Hex Loz; is it upper surface only? That would greatly simplify things, as it should come pretty close (if the kit/decal guys were doing their jobs)to covering just the portion of the wing you want, and I would think that the clear part would extend just slightly around to the bottom of the wing (like the PC10 "wraparound" onto lower surfaces of Pup/Came/SE 5 wings). Glueck Auf! Rob