Fokker Dr.I streaked camouflage.

[alan giles]

I'm with Olson on this one. Have a look at the treatment of the wings in the Jasta 15 line-up on the title page of FokkerDr1.com. What a mess! My own take on this,on my 1/32 Roden jobbie, is available for your,I hope,critical perusal back in posts 8 & 9,(for the appearance of which may I once more thank Stephen Lawson and his seriously-better-than-my-own computer skills).

[Olson]

Posted in error. Just wondering about the precise and uniform, perfectly parallel streaks on these decals..........John

[StephenLawson]

Here is a bit of a taste on the Microsculpt set.

[schwartzfalken]

Can someone please tell me where the light grey tones would come from if you are only applying fokker olive over doped linnen? This grey tonality seems like an impossibility.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.

[StephenLawson]

The Fokker company used bleached (off white)on at least the preproduction F.I and unbleached (dirty cream colour) linen on most production Dr.I airframes. Your monitor may show it more grey. The grey as you call it is more of a compromise between the two shades.

[Deedoubleyou]

The reason for the appearance of grays when only two colors are applied comes from how thick or opaque the upper layer of color is. Thinly applied color is more translucent than thicker applications and will allow more light to penetrate through it. When light travels through a layer and bounces off the bottom layer back out into space it will change the frequency on the return. How opaque the top layer is will determine how far through it the light will travel before bouncing back. If light penetrates deeper, the bottom layer of color will affect the frequency more. The various thicknesses of the streaked color will therefore give you a multitude of hues. In this manner you don't have to "mix" a color physically on a palette, light will do the work for you. Artists have been using this method for centuries from Leonardo Da Vinci to Johannes Vermeer. It is commonly called "glazing" because the artist would use a thinned color or "glaze" to tint the bottom color for the desired results. This method often gives the work a luminous quality that is much admired by collectors.

Dwayne

[StephenLawson]

Originally Posted by Olson

Very helpful, thanks Stephen. I'm an R/C modeller so any streaked paint finish will be brush applied. Not to sustain the diversion from the original subject, but the decals you demonstrate have an almost "bar code" regularity (uniform line width from top to bottom) whereas it seems to me that a hand brushed factory finish would be a bit more unorganized, nicht war?.........John

Greetings John,

The truth is the early Schwerin streaked camouflages did have a typical camouflage pattern that could be seen as moderately streaked and heavily streaked blocks. This did still have some irregularity and some illustrations show the green varying from a bright to almost black European green. Here is a bit more fun.

[Doug Baumann]

thank Steve the decal sheet looks big enough to minimize the cookie cutter look and adding streaking is even better!! are you going to finish these DRIs, just wondering ?? Doug

[StephenLawson]

Originally Posted by Doug Baumann

". . .are you going to finish these Dr. I kits, just wondering ?? Doug"

But of course. There are four under const even now.

[Doug Baumann]

MAN YOU ARE ONE BUSY PERSON you always have 6 irons in the fire lol lol looking good all of the irons keep them comming!! i like the DVII the best! Doug