Rigging methods

[Pmacko]

hi Everyone,

Been a few years since I have been on the forum. I realize this question has been probably asked many times before but please bear with me. I am getting ready to build my first biplane in several years and really want to upgrade my rigging method. Can the members offer links or instructions to some of their techniques?

All would be appreciated, thanks.

[berman]

You can Google Dennis Ugulano for his rigging system named DURAS. I would suggest using pre-stretched Dai Riki monofilament. Attach a small weight to a length and allow to hang there for a day or so.
I would not recommend using elastic rigging material as eventually the rubber will become brittle.
In addition, Lance Krieg has an excellent concept for a biplane construction jig. You can see this in the information section at WWI Modeling Page website.

[Tom W.]

Pre-stretched monofilament (invisible sewing thread) anchored with cyanoacrylate glue (Superglue). Use lengths of thread about six inches long.

Drill the holes after you've painted all the parts but before you've weathered the outer surfaces of the wings (top of the top wing, bottom of the bottom wing). Drill the holes all the way through the flying surfaces. Make sure to drill the holes at the angle of the rigging. DON'T drill a hole vertically through the wing, because you'll end up with a bent-looking attachment point.

Assemble the model. If the rigging is complex, anchor the rigging lengths in the fuselage holes before you attach the wings. If you prefer to assemble first, you'll need a high-quality pair of tweezers to reach the anchoring holes in the fuselage.

To do the actual rigging, dip the end of the monofilament in a puddle of glue and anchor it in the hole in the fuselage, let it cure, thread the rigging most of the way through the hole in the wing, add a droplet of glue to the thread close to the hole, and pull it tight to draw the glue into the hole. Hold it for a few seconds until the glue cures. I use fine brass wire to apply the glue droplets.

Using a very sharp razor blade, carefully trim off the excess thread on the outer surfaces of the wings. If you do it right the touching up of the hole will be minimal. You'll only need a tiny amount of paint. Once it's all touched up, apply decals and weather.

Some people don't paint the outer surfaces of the wings until they've rigged, but that entails a lot of masking. I just touch up the holes. It takes practice, but the effect is worth the effort.

I haven't build models for years because of my eyesight, but this method was the best I found.

Oh, and this method actually functions like real rigging, strengthening the final model considerably.

[theseeker]

I am just starting to rig a SE5 using Radu's new wires and this is the first 1/32 scale AC I have ever rigged, so far so good. You can check Kofoed's "SE5 a Finished" thread to see them. Here are a couple of links on regarding rigging and turnbuckles.
Tech Tips: Rigging a World War I Aircraft
"Rigging Scale Model Biplanes" by John Seaman, Austin Scale Modeler's Society
Turnbuckles
http://www.wwi-models.org/misc/Make_Turnbuckle.jpg

HTH!

Rocky

[Dances With Wolves]

Hi Paul:

This is one of those questions where you pays yer money and makes yer choice. Mine is a vote for Bob's Buckles. The anchors are built in as you assemble. There's no hole filling or touch up and you can rig at your leisure using monofilament.

The beauty of mono lies in its ability to be incrementally tightened by holding a heated screwdriver tip or blade near it if you end up with one or two slightly slack 'cables'.

Take a look at Bob's revamped site. The link is here -

Bob's Buckles

All power to those who prefer the drill through method and so on - this is a subject that's driven by personal choice so if you think that'd suit you better go for it!

Wish you well with it...whatever you choose.

Best regards

Steve

[Rowan Broadbent]

I'd just add to Toms very good description (my favourite method also) a note of caution; the method adds considerably to the strength of the finished model, which is to the good but you need to be methodical in the order in which you rig the airframe by adding the same wires on alternate sides.

This means that the strengthening aspect does not pull your carefully mounted wings out of alignment as it spreads the forces as you go.

Also I'd suggest an alternative method for the application of thin superglue - use a very fine drill mounted in a wooden cocktail stick; the glue gathers in the spiral grooves of the drill and forms a nice bead at the end. Running the drill through a cigarette lighter periodically burns off the dried glue, keeping the grooves clear.

[Pmacko]

These are all exactly what I was looking for. Thank you

[theseeker]

Paul,
No matter which method you choose, they are all intense. I am really starting to enjoy Radu's wires. No drilling and weights, thanks Kofoed! It's not easy or simple, but it does work. Good Hunting!
Rocky

[TheBlackPenguin]

Thanks for this, also helps me too! Just overcame some fear with trying to get the upper wing attached to my Bristol Scout C. Managed to do so without it looking warped to any major degree...

It does seem strange to drill holes into the wing surfaces after painting, but the results speak for themselves as I've seen.

Sorry to hijack the thread a little, but would this suffice for a 1/48 Bristol Scout?

Many thanks,

Matt

[Rowan Broadbent]

Originally Posted by TheBlackPenguin

............

Sorry to hijack the thread a little, but would this suffice for a 1/48 Bristol Scout?

Many thanks,

Matt

Hello Matt, it did for me - the rigged model even survived a tumble!


Gavia 1/48 Bristol Scout C - Capt L.G.Hawker