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Old 5 November 2009, 04:42 AM   #11 (permalink)
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All comments and feedback welcome.

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Old 5 November 2009, 04:59 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Magnificent!

On another note, I was wondering if you could point me to any explanation or tutorial of how you do your Albatros woodgrains?
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Old 5 November 2009, 06:32 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rowan Broadbent View Post
Hello Brad,

The problem with RFC/RNAS serials is that standardisation which WWII modellers are so used to, wasn't prevalent for British manufacturers at this time. Although German factories had their own 'house styles' to be sure.

If one looks at the SE5a as a case in point, there were many different contractors and within these manufacturers the size, style, colour and even position of serial numbers sometimes varied from one production order to the next and even within a particular production batch.

To do an accurate sheet of RFC serials would involve many different number sets for each individual aircraft. Where standardisation exists, such as with Fokker Dr.Is, I include additional number sets. I'll also be doing this with the Macchi M5, as there was a distinctive Macchi style.

I'm not necessarily ruling out some sort of British serial number decal sheet but I am saying that it's not as simple as some would have you believe!

The 48th SE5a decals will be out this week with 17 different options - one for 2 Sqn AFC, but too late for you Brad!

BTW, I haven't ruled out your Kookaburra family for the Pup - just waiting to see if the new Aeroclub model has the Whitehead/Monosoupape cowling.
Hi Brad--lovely S.E.---though I wonder if your wheels are not looking a bit 'Sopwith' splayed.....no criticism I assure you---just observation.

Hi Rowan,
I too understand the difficulty of serial numbers/letters----how about (tell me to shut up) A 'presentation' sheet---on say, SE's or Camels there are some good ones!!!

Dave.

Last edited by bristol scout; 5 November 2009 at 07:43 AM.
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Old 5 November 2009, 02:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks guys!

Dave - good comment on the wheels - answer is "force of habit" Think I might fix 'em...

Charlie - my wood grain technique is quite simple. I start with a base coat of acrylic, usually a linnen or pale yellow colour. I then streak some slightly thinned Winsor and Newton oil paints over the surface in the direction of the grain. Because it is thinned slightly it leaves a nice streaky effect, and being oil paints they have a long working time and "draw" across the surface quite nicely. The colours I use for this vary, but usually I use a combination of burnt sienna, raw umber, black and white. You can also add small dobs of a darker brown and streak that through to give the effect of knots in the wood. Once this is all dry (usually about a week - oils take ages to dry) I overspray the whole thing with either clear yellow or clear orange to help tone down the overall look of the grains. That's all there is to it :-)
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Old 5 November 2009, 05:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Another nice one Brad. Your builds always end up looking so damned realistic!

Cheers,

Hugh
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Old 6 November 2009, 03:37 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Beautiful! I would say, a typical high class Brad Cancian's modelling. It is a delight to see this subtle and convincing paintwork and shading. Great model, Brad!
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Old 6 November 2009, 05:56 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks for the explanation Brad!

I'm going to experiment with your method this weekend. I've been doing a similar thing, but I've done a poor job with color-mixing so far, relying too much on burnt sienna and raw umber mixes over buff and getting far too much red-brown. I guess I'm not much of a keen painter at heart! Need to tone it down.

Again, much appreciated.
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Old 6 November 2009, 08:22 PM   #18 (permalink)
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very good looking model Brad Doug
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Old 6 November 2009, 10:27 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Hi Brad,

Absolutely outstanding model! I had a look through my AFC photo albums but was not able to see any photos of this particular 2 Sq AFC SE5a. I saw your comment about the upper wing code. I know from my research and from referring to my collection of WW1 aeroplane photographs that there is a lot of inconsistency where the construction, colours and markings of First World War aeroplanes are concerned. I don't think I have seen upper wing codes applied this way, but I am not sure. Were the markings applied as a result of consultation with one or more photograph? Did you know that First World War British roundel blue was actually very dark, very similar to WW2 British roundel blue?

Regards,

David.
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Old 6 November 2009, 10:48 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Hi David - yes, I have three photos of this machine I used as reference - one can be found in the Windsock datafile on SE5a sqn markings for 2AFC, which I beleive I cannot share here due to copyright (but I can e-mail you a copy if needed). That said, some editing of the photo shows the orientation of the wing marking (and the photo has not been reversed).



As you can see, the "E" is applied correctly.

I am under the understanding that the blue applied to RFC aircraft was roughly between the RAF dark blue of the 40s and their very vibrant lighter blue of the 1920s. I do not think it is as dark as the RAF blue of the 1940s from my references.

Thanks!

BC
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