1/32 Rigging Question

[Euskera]

When using monofilament, do most drill holes through the upper wing to rig? I was wondering what the best technique is when using monofilament as I will be using that for the first time in my next build. Thanks!

[beeza]

Hi Euskera.

The way rigging is done varies greatly between every modeller, each has his/her own special way which they feel suits them best, all are correct and all achieve good results.
The way I have rigged all my 1/32 aircraft suits me and I find it reasonably simple, depending on the complexity of the rigging for the particular model you are building.

This is my way;

I drill HALF way through the top wing (from the bottom) preferably at the same angle as the rigging. I use 0.2mm or 0.3mm drill bits, use what you are most comfortable with. I then attach each rigging line and fix using a small drop of runny CA (super glue). I always attach ALL the rigging to the top wing before fitting the wing.
I drill right through the bottom wing using the same size drill bit and again preferably at the rigging angle. I now fit the top wing and when dry I start the rigging. Pass each rigging line through the corresponding hole in the bottom wing, once complete check for wing alignment. Using a small amount of weight, I use self clamping tweezers, tension the rigging. I normally do two at a time, one on one wing and it's opposite partner on the other wing, this keeps the wings aligned by adding equal weight to both sides at once. Continue until all the rigging is complete, trim off excess line with a scalpel. The bottom of your bottom wing can now be finished with paint and decals with no visible signs of any rigging holes.

Hope this has helped you in some way.

Des.

NB. It makes life a lot easier if you drill all your rigging holes before fitting the bottom wing.

[Tom W.]

I drill all the way through both wings, because this really strengthens the structure. I anchor with superglue, which also acts as a filler. I don't paint the outer surfaces of the wings until after I've rigged.

[beeza]

Hi Euskera.

Here is a picture of my DH-2 that I rigged using the method I described earlier. This is a very complicated rigging but using my method made the task reasonably easy. All those lines hanging from the top wing looked pretty awesome but it all fell into place without much hassle.
Good luck with your build and hope it all turns out well for you.

Des.

[stevedrew]

Awesome DH-2 build Des. A few things...

A GREAT idea to rig corresponding wires on both left and right at the same time to help the wings to stay aligned!

How can you drill at the same angle that the rigging lines will adapt after assembly? I know that there would be some drill slippage, and even though the drills to be used are positively tiny, there would still be some touch-up to be done if your wings are already painted (as I expect they will be). Now, of course, you're not using a drill press, but a tiny hand-held pin vice, and can take it relatively easy. Do you use, for instance, some masking tape over the wing surface to a) protect it, and b) give something for the drill to grip into initially? Would the tape stick to the drill in this method?

I also purchased some of "Bob's Buckles", and they have tiny eyelets to anchor both sides of your rigging. I suppose there would be less "need" to drill the mounting holes for these at the same angles that the finished rigging would adapt. Also there will be sometimes when you will have two rigging lines emanating from the same position on the model, that will result in two opposite directions for the rigging wires. Do you then drill two adjacent holes at the appropriate angles, or drill perpendicularly (perhaps only on this occasion), allowing two rigging wires to emanate from the same hole, and travelling in almost opposite directions? Would this possibly make the rigging wire look "out-of-place" because it would come out at 90 degrees to the model, and then bend to the direction of rigging? Would this "weaken" the rigging or stress it unneccessarily? The tiny eyelets mean that you can connect several rigging wires at the same location.

I know that I'm going to break a LOT of drills until I learn the correct technique, so I thought the best preventative method would be to insert the drill as deeply as possible into the pin vice, leaving the smallest amount out to work with. Now, to drill at these angles, I'm guessing that would necessitate having more drill bit extending from the pin vice.

Finally, how do you gauge how deeply to drill into the bottom of the top wing? Do you use calipers to measure the thickness or use the old Mk1 eyeball? Perhaps just to drill until you feel there is a deep enough hole to get "purchase" on the monofilament?

Thanks for all your help Des.

[beeza]

Hi Steve.

I will try and answer your questions the best I can bearing in mind that I am by no means an expert.

1. To drill the holes at roughly the same angle as the rigging.

I always drill the holes before assembly. I put both wings on a sheet of paper trailing edge down and at the correct distance apart. I then draw a line where each rigging line goes. Transcribe the angles onto a bit of thick card and cut the angle, you can now use this as a guide for your pin vice. If you find it a little awkward, eyeballing is usually close enough. Remember to drill as small a hole as possible, just big enough for the size rigging line you are using. On most 1/32 scale models 0.15mm mono is a good size so a 0.2mm drill bit is appropriate, 0.3mm is easier to use and still does not require any touch-up.

2. Something for the drill to grip.

Yes, the drill bits are very tiny and do break easily so a pin vice is essential. I have the top wing completely finished before I drill the holes in the undersurface. The bottom wing has it's upper surface complete but nothing done to the underside. I drill a very small pilot hole at right angles to the wing in the exact position where the rigging will be fixed, then I drill at the desired angle using the pilot hole as a guide for the drill bit. I have never had any slippage and there is no need for any touch-up afterwards.

3. Bob's Buckles.

I have not used Bobs Buckles but from what I have seen what you say is correct. Being a tiny eyelet would allow you to drill at right angles to the wing, insert the eyelet and the rigging would angle itself correctly.

4. Two lines from the one hole.

This does cause a problem, like you say, two lines going in opposite directions if exiting at right angles would look a bit odd. I drill adjacent holes as close together as possible at the required angles, once the lines are in place they appear to be coming from the one hole. Eyelets overcome this problem very easily by allowing you to fix multiple lines and running them in any direction.
On the rare occasion where I have had to fix a line at 90 degrees then "bending" it to gain the correct angle has in no way weakened or stressed the rigging, it provides as strong a joint as angled holes.

5. Drill bit insertion.

After a bit of practice you will find that the bits don't break very often. The picture of my DH-2 shows a lot of rigging which meant a lot of holes, I broke one drill bit due to the pin vice slipping between my fingers, lack of attention I guess.
Insert the drill bit so the jaws of the pin vice grips the shank of the drill, DON'T grip the flutes of the bit, doing this will surely break the bit as soon as a little force is applied. With most of the holes I drill the jaws of the vice are as close to the flutes as possible.

6. How deep.

After a bit of practice you can "feel" how deep you need to go, you don't require a lot of "purchase" on the mono to obtain a good grip but remember, do not over tension the line, only a small amount of weight is required. After applying the CA to the rigging in the top wing I leave it for about an hour before adding any weight, this is to be sure the glue has set firmly. The only time I have had one let go is when I coloured the line with marker pen, glued it in position, then after an hour applied tension and it let go, the glue stuck to the marker ink which stayed in the hole and the line pulled out, so lesson No.1, scrape off any marker ink where the glue is going.

I hope I have answered your questions for you. I have had a great deal of success rigging my aircraft in the method described, it is reasonably easy and very strong, it is amazing how very weak wings and struts become rock solid after the rigging is applied. The tail booms and tail section of my DH-2 are a classic example of rigging adding enormous rigidity to a very weak structure.

Other members will have different ideas on rigging, like I said, we are all different and we all do things the way that we feel most comfortable, but no matter how you do it, just have fun and enjoy the experience.

THERE IS NO RIGHT OR WRONG WAY - JUST YOUR WAY

Cheers

Des.

[stevedrew]

Des,

A rapid and comprehensive reply to all my questions. Thanks mate.

A few comments if I may...

"I drill a very small pilot hole..." A great idea of course to ALWAYS drill a smaller pilot hole for ANY drilling project of any size in any medium...just sounded funny to drill a VERY SMALL pilot hole to help you drill an accurate hole with a 0.20 mm drill bit! I bought some drill bits from Hobbyco (#71 & #72 - four of each) and yesterday I bought two "Microbox" Drill bit sets of 20 bits each, the first was 0.3mm to 1.6mm, and the second was 20 pieces #61 to #80.

I plan on using .14mm (4lb breaking strain) as that was all I could get - well...also .20mm 8lb (but that might be too thick for scale accuracy). I couldn't get Chameleon like you use...apparently brown in colour. But also like you, I plan to colour it silver either by colouring it with a silver pen or dragging it through a drop of silver paint.

Des, I know that there is no right way or wrong way - just "my" way...but I need IDEAS and METHODS from others to try (maybe to fail, maybe to succeed) before I figure out what is the best for me. Like I have said, I'm just starting out making WW1 aircraft models, so I've never rigged an aircraft before. ANY ideas are gratefully accepted. I'll try them ALL and decide for myself what works best.

And you have provided me with some great ideas. Thanks again mate. Check your "Private Messages" please.

Steve

[bobs_buckles]

Hello Steve,
I always drill at the angle of the rigging when using my wee buckles. You want the run of rigging uninterrupted by right angles, believe me
Pre drill all holes first. I made a simple template out of plastic card that guides the pin vice at the angle I require.

Hope this helps,
Cheers
Bob

[beeza]

Hi Steve.

Sorry about the pilot hole, it should have read - drill a very shallow pilot hole using the same size bit as for the rigging.

Hi Bob.

There is no way I would torture my mono and put it through right angle bends, When I said I have on rare occasions drill at right angles to the wing then bent the mono to the desired angle, the max I would go is probably no greater than 45 degrees. At this angle there is no added stress to the mono or the CA. (I've never had a failure due to the mono having a 45 bend).

Cheers

Des.

[terri werner]

The wonderful joy's of rigging ! As Des has said there are many methods out there which are used . Through the wings is the easiest and less frustrating way to rig . i have tried this method before but was never good and the triming part until I learned this method which is done with twisted wire hoops and q-tips .

Start by drilling all of your holes , but don't drill all the way through . 6 or 7 turns of the pin vince will do .

Next step is using just a drill bit #80 and some fine wire from an old cord with the plastic strip off . Cut small lenghts . Bend this over the bit and pinch it as close as possible and twist the bit . You will end up with a small hoop . Trim off the stub on the end so the bottom of the hoop just touches the wing . Fill the hole with super glue . I use a medium glue for this . Placce the stub in the hole . The side of the hoop should face the direction of the line . Do this to all of the drill holes . Mount the top wing .

Now for the q-tip part . Just the same as stretch spure but using the plastic q-tips pull this to the sizn of tubing you are comfortable with . Cut small lenghts to about 3mm or less . Now take your line and slip on two of the cut tubing . Pass the line through on of the hoops and back thread it through the q-tip . Sinch this down to the hoop and just touch the q-tip with runny super glue . repeat to all of the others . Paint your line to what ever colour and same with the q-tip bits which are the turn buckles . What I like about this method is if a line does break . You don't have to redrill the hole and start over . and the line will pull to and angle you want .

This works well in 72 to 32 scale . it is more time consuming but the end results are well worth it .