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| Replica Aircraft Topics related to the construction of WWI replica aircraft |
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11 March 2006, 08:50 PM
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#1201 (permalink)
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Scout Pilot
Contributor
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 306
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Another Spandau Update
While some epoxy was drying, I was able to complete a little more work on the Spandaus....I have decided to utilize a few original Maxim pieces to add a little more detail to the guns - most notably, the feed block and fusee spring cover. The feedblock was definitely something I felt that I couldn't machine myself and make it look passable so I opted for a real one. Both the feed block and spring cover are actually from a 1910 Maxim but are close enough in appearance for me. I had to shorten the spring cover a little as it is originally too long but the feed block was a perfect fit ! Even allows me to use real belts !
Still have to finish the top covers and some smaller items but things seem to be shaping up.
Here are a few photos of the test fit and mock-up.....

Last edited by Fokker210; 12 March 2006 at 06:50 AM.
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11 March 2006, 08:53 PM
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#1202 (permalink)
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Scout Pilot
Contributor
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 306
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More Spandau Stuff
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12 March 2006, 04:26 AM
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#1203 (permalink)
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Forum Ace
Contributor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,084
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those guns just keep looking better and better!
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12 March 2006, 07:03 PM
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#1204 (permalink)
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Two-seater Pilot
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: DFW area
Posts: 135
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Outstanding Spandaus
Fokker 210,
Amazing construction and patience you must have. Most impressive machine guns.
Wow!
joepilot
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13 March 2006, 12:28 AM
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#1205 (permalink)
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Forum Ace
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Indy, Home of the 500 race
Posts: 578
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Hi Fokker 210,
Very nice work on the guns! I think your idea of mixing in a few original parts will up the look of your guns, (albeit you were getting the right look spot on so far on your own). I believe you have all the drawings that are out there if you need any detail photos just ask.
One point of contention, I have identified and lobbied heavily that the ammo belt utilized by 99.9 % of the German fighters was the much narrower two rivet belt. The one you show in your gun is the three rivet type with the extended finger with tab end. This is the type of belt used for the water cooled ground guns. See photo 124 on page 85 of Imrie's The Fokker Triplane for the correct aircraft type. This is also the same belt utilized by Parabellum machine guns. The three rivet belt with extended finger tabs is too big to fit thru the exit tube of the Spandau to the empty belt box. The extended finger with tab is a design to keep the bullet spacing properly in the ammo belt while stored in the portable 250 round ammo boxes. The boxes are thrown around and jostled by running soldiers, the finger with tab keeps the belt from sliding up and off of the bullets. The bullets are pointy and the belt tends to slide up, this is avoided by the extended fingers with tabs keeping the belt down by the fingers hitting the inside of the portable ammo boxes. This keeps the bullets in the belts at the same spacing. The tips of the bullets are against the inside of the ammo box as well as the extended fingers with tabs. This retains the belt position.
Sorry to get wordy it's hard to describe.
Great work!
Best,
Dave W.
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13 March 2006, 06:44 PM
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#1206 (permalink)
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Scout Pilot
Contributor
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 306
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Thanks a lot for the kind remarks, gents !
Especially from Dave "The Maxim Man" Watts ! And, of course, you are right about the belts - This is just all I have at the moment. I have been looking for the correct two rivet belt for a while now but have come up empty handed. Only need a couple of feet actually but have come up snake eyes so far....hope to find the right thing eventually !

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13 March 2006, 08:18 PM
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#1207 (permalink)
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Two-seater Pilot
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: DFW area
Posts: 135
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Oops
For those who a just beginning to build the fuselage and for those who are considering - don't do what I did. Thank God I found it before I welded. As it was I only lost a few pieces and not the entire front side. Ron's plans on sheet 17 side view, lower longeron, lower forward left corner appear to be a 90* corner cut. However if you look at the fuselage drawing bottom view you will see both lower longerons continue to the 1/2 inch thick cowl ring. Don't make it a corner, make the lower longerons like the upper longerons straight through to the cowl ring. I have enclosed pictures of Ron's drawing and my cut to a corner and the used pieces that will go to making "wind chimes". So it is back to the cutter.
Boy is this fun,
joepilot
Rons Sheet 17 side and bottom views
Mine miss read on making a corner
The pieces that will end up as wind chimes
The new missing links

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13 March 2006, 08:38 PM
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#1208 (permalink)
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Scout Pilot
Contributor
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 306
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Thanks, Joepilot !
This is what makes this forum invaluable ! This type of information sharing is what it's all about !
That said, I'm sure I will still end up with plenty of "wind chimes" of my own before it is all said and done !

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14 March 2006, 04:20 AM
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#1209 (permalink)
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Two-seater Pilot
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Connecticut, USA
Posts: 283
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Joepilot
It’s not that he depicted as a 45, he did show it correctly the problem is that the 5/8 tube blocks the other half. If you look at any other 90 fish mouth joint and block half it starts to look like a 45. Before you cut any tube, first look at all three views and make sure that you understand what is going on in the print and why, if you’re not sure just drop a line. I’m sorry I missed that lower longeron, I guess the 5/8 tube threw me off.
Ed
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14 March 2006, 06:57 AM
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#1210 (permalink)
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Forum Ace
Contributor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,084
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i am appreciative that we all have a place to talk about our obstacles without being attacked as building "death traps". Keep 'em coming! that's the real purpose of this forum!

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