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Replica Aircraft Topics related to the construction of WWI replica aircraft



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Old 6 August 2006, 04:17 AM   #1481 (permalink)
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The brackets fit fine. The holes were off a little with the spar, but we didn’t need to elongate them. And even better they matched the fuselage just fine too.

Good Luck
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Old 6 August 2006, 10:03 AM   #1482 (permalink)
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Thanks Ed,

I'm hoping to get my spars aligned and mounted to the fuselage soon, and then start putting ribs on the spars, hopefully before winter sets in and the temperature in my barn drops to just above freezing like last winter.
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Old 13 August 2006, 05:42 PM   #1483 (permalink)
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Tubing Notcher

Hi Fritz,

Did you use a Tubing Notcher to cut your steel tube ? Anyone who has tried one of these to cut aircraft tubing please feel free answer this question. I'm interested in whether or not this device makes the job easier , accurate , and faster. Are there brands that perform better than other's.
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Old 13 August 2006, 05:50 PM   #1484 (permalink)
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Louis,

Fritz usually uses me- I use a tape measure and a heavy duty electrical cutter. I should have a picture around somewhere....

Jim
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Old 14 August 2006, 03:14 PM   #1485 (permalink)
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A lathe a lathe, my kingdom for a lathe

I think a nice 10 or 12 inch lathe is what I need.
Nice photo Jim. You look like a mad scientist creating god knows what. Hey, I think it's a Fokker Triplane. It's alive, it's alive. So how did you fish mouth them. You cut straight across and then put the correct angle in I guess.

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Old 15 August 2006, 08:48 AM   #1486 (permalink)
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After Jim cut the tubes we would put them in my milling machine and run the appropriate end mill throw the end of it. We did also use a angle die grinder with a cut wheel to adjust the angle if needed. We never used the tool you mentioned.

Ed
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Old 15 August 2006, 02:22 PM   #1487 (permalink)
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Louis,

I used a tubing notcher with an electric hand drill and the appropriate holesaw. I found that its not an ideal solution as it is difficult to maintain a constant speed and pressure when cutting. Sometimes the holesaw grabs, the result being broken teeth on the holesaw. I got through quite a few 7/8 holesaws when doing my fuselage. Putting the notcher in a drill press would be better if you can still get the angles you need. I couldnt.

Fritz's solution is better if you have access to a mill or lathe.
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Old 15 August 2006, 04:33 PM   #1488 (permalink)
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Tube Notcher

I used a tube notcher too. they were okay for simple joints. when you get to those joints that are compound angels .... the notcher falls short.
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Old 16 August 2006, 04:56 AM   #1489 (permalink)
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"the holesaw grabs, the result being broken teeth on the holesaw"
Its probably the wrong pitch of the teeth on the cutting blade. Rule of thumb is, one wants 4 teeth per thickness of material, and I know there's limited selection of holesaws available with the correct tooth pitch. One has to use whats available. It sounds like its too course and it requires finer cutting teeth.
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Old 17 August 2006, 01:03 PM   #1490 (permalink)
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Triplane trainer

Never would've thought I'd say this, but I flew one of these today, and had the thought that it might be of some help to budding Triplane pilots. Obviously the visual cues are very different, but the pitch sensitivity and the need to feel what the machine is doing and react properly would probably help in flying any old airplane. Maybe any airplane really. I've always said that everybody should have to solo in a glider, then a J-3 Cub, then they'd know how to fly and could go on to any type to progress, but maybe add this....
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