DR-1 (Sands): Builders Group - Page 231

Jim Bruton · 26 August 2008, 03:23 PM

Yes, I too have gotten carried away a couple of times and I'm sure the best is yet to come. lol.

Regarding the logo, I found a couple of sources and then freehanded it on tracing paper - taped to the computer monitor (printer out of ink) - and once I nailed down where on the rudder I wanted it, I simply used carbon paper to trace it onto the rudder. I would get a good brush for this. The numbers I just kind of made up based on some similar styles I had seen.

I'll scan the Fokker logo to here and you can resize it and clean it up as you like.

Jim

Jim Bruton · 26 August 2008, 03:50 PM

i used this- just enlarge it to what seems right to you. got it off Ed's site.

CORVUS · 27 August 2008, 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dogtail2

Hi Jim,

Yes they are the same as the aileron circuit, they are AN140-16S turnbuckles. Should be 9 in total.(3 aileron and 6 tail surfaces).

Pete

Hi Pete,

Very excellent looking work. Just a quick question. Are those inserts your using in your control cable guides ? Looks like PVC or Teflon ?

Lou

Jim Bruton · 27 August 2008, 07:22 AM

teflon is indicated.

CORVUS · 27 August 2008, 07:31 AM

Hi Jim,

Okay, my drawings are rolled up. Can you buy teflon tubes or is this sheet material you roll up and slide inside. Is it glued in place ? What type glue ? If it's all in the drawings then I'll eventually read what to do.

Thanks,

Lou

Jim Bruton · 27 August 2008, 08:21 AM

Lou,

I would look up an industrial supplier for teflon solid tube stock, and match the OD to the clamp indicated in the plans. If it is 1" then go with that.

You would then drill or mill the hole as indicated in the plans.

Then clamp the teflon component in the clamp with the appropriate nut and bolt- it will hold the teflon (that almost sounds counter-intuitive, doesn't it?) tight.

Ron also indicates that the FAA may require pulleys instead of the teflon sleeves, and indicates which ones to order.

I see that Fred Murrin uses 2 additional guides- I am not sure if that is the fix to a common problem or it has to do with his accurate 103/17 reproduction..

Jim

Von Writter · 27 August 2008, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Bruton

Lou,

I would look up an industrial supplier for teflon solid tube stock, and match the OD to the clamp indicated in the plans. If it is 1" then go with that.

You would then drill or mill the hole as indicated in the plans.

Then clamp the teflon component in the clamp with the appropriate nut and bolt- it will hold the teflon (that almost sounds counter-intuitive, doesn't it?) tight.

Ron also indicates that the FAA may require pulleys instead of the teflon sleeves, and indicates which ones to order.

I see that Fred Murrin uses 2 additional guides- I am not sure if that is the fix to a common problem or it has to do with his accurate 103/17 reproduction..

Jim

Or you can just buy them, though I don't know if these are the right size for the DRI? CABLE FAIRLEADS from Aircraft Spruce

Dogtail2 · 27 August 2008, 09:56 AM

Lou,

I used nylon turned from solid bar with a shoulder made slightly larger diameter than the clamp so that they cant slip out.

Pete

CORVUS · 27 August 2008, 10:11 AM

Thanks !!

I've always found it interesting on the Fokker originals that they used a piece of tube as a guide. Can't tell if their flared on the edges. Seems like a good idea to do that in order to minimize chafing. Maybe Fred noticed that the cables rub the edges and decided to add more guides to try and minimize that. I'm speculating.

Wow ! Dogtail2 those are a work of art. Regarding all those clamp type fittings on the frame. Are those put in place before you weld up the tube ? If not, how do you get them on ?

Lou

Jim Bruton · 27 August 2008, 10:20 AM

Those do look good Pete- but I also like being able to order them already made so thanks Von Writter.

Pete, one thing that is kind of referenced in the plans but not spelled out in detail: we have to modify the forwardmost lightening holes in the rear rib webs between the outer and associated inner pulleys (R:R & L:L) on the upper wing, yes? It's one of those things that's hard for me to exactly visualize but I know will become clear when I am standing there ready to rig...

If you have made those mods, could you send some photos?

Really appreciate where you are with this.

Jim