DR-1 (Sands): Builders Group - Page 232

Dogtail2 · 27 August 2008, 01:41 PM

Jim,

Here is a photo of the modified lightening hole. Only need to mod this rib and the adjacent double rib. The rest clear without modifying.

Jim Bruton · 27 August 2008, 03:02 PM

That's the photo I was looking for Pete- many thanks!

Jim

tengew · 27 August 2008, 07:44 PM

CORVUS.... if you look at the bottom of the clamp you will see that it is a 2 sided clamp and opens on both endes the bottom is bolted to the frame

CORVUS · 27 August 2008, 08:46 PM

Thanks Tengew,

I see what you mean.

Dogtail2 · 28 August 2008, 12:34 AM

The clamps are 2 of these AN741 :-

Wicks Aircraft Supply

Which I welded back to back.

CORVUS · 28 August 2008, 09:11 AM

Those are nice clamps. I can see that these can be slipped over the steel tube once all the welding is done. I wasn't sure how much deformation is required to get them araound the tube. Based on the photo it looks like they slip over with very little pressure.

Dogtail2 · 28 August 2008, 03:17 PM

Has anyone modified their P51 fuel guage yet? If so could you post how it was done. Thanks.

Jim Bruton · 28 August 2008, 06:28 PM

Pete,

I assume you mean shortening it. I have a friend who is making me my fuel tank and will making the mod for me- in terms of shortening the tube and the rod that turns inside it- I don't think it should be too big a deal. Just need to make sure the float's sweep is still representative of "Full" and "Empty" when at each end of the movement range.

Another one of those things we'll have to figure out!

Jim

tengew · 28 August 2008, 06:35 PM

that should be a matter of the displacemen of the float once the tube is shortened

Dogtail2 · 29 August 2008, 01:09 AM

After much effort I managed to get my fuel gauge apart. I can tell you it was not easy. Ron says to remove the "lower housing" by placing in boiling water. Dont know specifically which bit he meant but I boiled everything and it didnt help. The top of the tube is threaded and retained by a threaded washer which requires a special tool to undo, which I had to make. The bottom part, housing the bevel gears, is integral with the tube and does not seperate. So, how is the tube shortened? If I cut the top off I lose the threaded part and cannot reassemble it. If I cut the bottom off, I lose the bevel gear mechanism. The only way as I see it is to cut a portion from the middle and then somehow rejoin the two ends.
None of this is mentioned by Ron on the drawing.