DR-1 (Sands): Builders Group

[Jim Bruton]

Lou,

Regarding the landing gear clip as per the original that you refer to, that's how Ed & I are doing it...

Jim

[CORVUS]

Jim,

Nice work. I see you have your aluminum access plate installed too. That seems like a sensible upgrade from the original. I must admit the clip on the strut makes for a much cleaner condition. Less cutouts in the wing sheathing, etc. I've seen a lot of repro's , D-VII's and DR-1's that have it mounted to the strut. Even Walt Redfern shows his mounted there. Wonder if the Old Rhinebeck Triplane has ever had a problem with it. I think it was built as per Walt's drawings. It's almost as old as dirt. Tried and true.

Lou

[philcie]

Hello, guys

is there any one in europe starting to build spandau replica
i would be interested for two to complet my DR I

[gipsymoth236k]

I have TWO already manufactured, very good reproduction Spandau LMG 08/15 machine guns for sale! They are legal everywhere, as they have NO real gun parts. Do you have interest in seeing them, and my offered price?

Let me know at garysewal@aol.com

Regards, Gary Sewall
USA

[CORVUS]

Referencing sheet #4 of the Ron Sands drawings. This sheet is the wing spar flange and construction details.

This question is for anyone who has built their wings or is in the process.

Excuse me if this question has already come up.

I see that you are to order spar flanges which are the overall length of the spar. I see no provision for splicing. Then as I read on you are to put the taper in the spar flange using a 10" Table saw. I have a Sears model 10" table saw. I'm trying to visualize me and another person holding two flanges 21 feet long and running them through my table saw which is 10' away. Probably need three people so you have someone at the saw itself holding things down. Not only that. The table surface on these saws is limited. Delta, Sears, their all about the same.

So my question is, do you need three people to do this correctly and is this saw adaquate. I'm thinking I need to get them to a mill or a shop with a very big table.

In either case what's a good tooth interval on the blade.

Thanks,

Lou

[Jim Bruton]

I did it all by my lonesome and it would have been great to have one extra pair of hands.

What I did is use three rollers on stands and leveled them to the saw table- that meant I could use two to feed and one to receive, and I stood right at the saw. I also drew my cut lines very clearly on the wood and just fed it very slowly and carefully. Since the cuts are on the side that will be inward facing, it's not hyper-critical if they are not laser-straight. You aren't building a supersonic composite jet fighter and it is....a WW1 repro aircraft. As long as you aren't taking more material away than you are supposed to, what does a slight wave on the internal side matter? Don't psyche yourself out- you can do that when you are running your completed spar ladders through the planer, taking only a fraction of an inch off- in that case, you don't want dips!

I don't remember what blade I used, but it was new and it was sharp- as the middle finger of my left hand found out. (amazingly, only if the light hits it right do you see any sign of the injury- so stay focused and turn OFF your blackberry).

Jim

[Albatros_Ace]

Sorry if someone has posted this before(i didn't feel like staying up all night reading) but I thought it might be some help if they wanted that extra realness so this site has CAD Drawings for a reproduction Oberursel Engine


And that would be here

[CORVUS]

Jim,

Okay , I see what you mean. so you do have to build something to support those monster's as you run them through. I'll rig something up. I just needed a confirmation.

I'm surprised there's no splice in them at the center. I guess we'll never know if the originals were. Never did check Walt Redferns drawings.

I have a router table I'm building for the ribs. There's a neat cheap insert that you can buy from Harbor Freight. It's very much like bakelite. You have to be careful because it chips when you drill through. As I found out on one hole.

I asked a friend to CNC the ribs if I put them in Auto Cad. He said you can router them as fast or faster with a jig. I know I'll be able to do them quick with a flush bit.

Thanks !!

Lou


Follow up: Walt Redfern shows no splice in those spar flanges either.

[Dogtail2]

Originally Posted by CORVUS

Referencing sheet #4 of the Ron Sands drawings. This sheet is the wing spar flange and construction details.

This question is for anyone who has built their wings or is in the process.

Excuse me if this question has already come up.

I see that you are to order spar flanges which are the overall length of the spar. I see no provision for splicing.

Corvus

Take a look at sheet #27. You will see splices all over the place. If you order the wood package from wicks you will definately be splicing your spars to make the full length. The taper is cut before joining the splices. The only time I had to run a 21 foot length through the saw was when trimming off 1/8" as indicated on the drawing.

[Butch]

Splice together a long pine board the full length of the spar. Lay the spar diagonally across the pine board with the material to be removed hanging over the side. Run the pine board straight through the saw.