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| Replica Aircraft Topics related to the construction of WWI replica aircraft |
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1 December 2004, 07:37 PM
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#301 (permalink)
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Forum Ace
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,116
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thank's Jim, Worldcrusier no problem if I can help you, just ask!
do you see Barny sametimes ?
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3 December 2004, 07:06 PM
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#302 (permalink)
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Two-seater Pilot
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 206
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Well, I can make round ferrules with no problem thanks to Rex's description. Been trying to mash on them to make them oval. Not much luck. Any of the machinists or fab guys have an idea for a procedure to keep the darn things from 'laying' over when I mash on them?
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4 December 2004, 12:09 AM
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#303 (permalink)
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Forum Ace
Contributor
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Schorndorf - Germany
Posts: 2,471
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Worldcruiser,
Did you cut the ferrules to lenght before or after you pressed them?
Achim
Last edited by AchimEngels; 4 December 2004 at 12:12 AM.
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4 December 2004, 04:00 AM
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#304 (permalink)
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Forum Ace
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,116
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Worldcrusier,make the ferruls red hot and press them oval.the wire will stay hard.
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4 December 2004, 06:08 AM
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#305 (permalink)
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Two-seater Pilot
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 204
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DO NOT TREAT THE FERRULES AS franzkait SUGGESTS. With out knowing what grade of steel and what hardness and temper it is at, you could be creating big problem. Some steels will become dead soft, and others will become very brittle like glass if treated that way! Another example of his ignorance, and how it could prove dangerous to the unsuspecting. 
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4 December 2004, 06:35 AM
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#306 (permalink)
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Two-seater Pilot
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 206
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I cut them to length and just as a test I pressed one and it reacted as I thought it would. It simply laid over. I'm using .078 Stainless Steel wire and after forming it resists additional dimensional change. I think I'll try 'trapping' the ends and pressing to a controlled dimension. I'll let you know how it works out. The SAE information provided earlier suggests that I could use about .010 thinner wire for the ferrule, say .065 or so, but I think the problems would be the same. Achim, will you plese give me an idea how you did yours? If you have covered this in an earlier post, just an idea where the post is will be sufficent. Thanks.
Last edited by worldcrusier; 4 December 2004 at 06:41 AM.
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4 December 2004, 01:23 PM
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#307 (permalink)
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Two-seater Pilot
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 204
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worldcruiser,
I was a little confused by what you mean by laid over, but now I understand. Your idea of trapping the ends is good. Myself I would make a pair of female form blocks the shape of the finished ferrule, and cap the ends to prevent laying over. The form blocks would help prevent the sides from kinking during the squish. Will have to experiment some as there will be some spring back after forming. Is the wire a 300 series stainless?
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4 December 2004, 02:23 PM
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#308 (permalink)
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Forum Ace
Contributor
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Schorndorf - Germany
Posts: 2,471
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I did it as Worldcrusier is going to try, but I did not cut them to lenght. I made a "spiral" of about 15 cm lenght, trapped the ends and after that cut them to size.
Achim
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4 December 2004, 02:39 PM
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#309 (permalink)
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Two-seater Pilot
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 206
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Thanks for the help. I am on the right track. I've found out that using 3/16 rod for a mandrell is too big and 1/8 rod is too small. The 5/32 suggested by Rex will probably work well. Trapping the ends works well enough. I've tried a few setups and I think I can make this work ok. When I get the 5/32 rod and make a few useable ferrules, I'll post pics and info. Thanks again everyone.
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4 December 2004, 02:50 PM
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#310 (permalink)
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Forum Ace
Contributor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,084
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i look forward to the pics!
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