DR-1 (Sands): Builders Group

Jim Bruton · 24 April 2012, 04:57 PM

Francois,

For the Sands' aircraft, there does not seem to be a stated range within the plans, only a single point measurement, and that is engine specific. For the Lycoming version, also contributing to where the CG resides are things that may or may not be on other people's DR1s- starter, battery, etc. I have heard of MAC being as high as 42%, with the angle of incidence adjusted on the horizontal stabilizer accordingly. I am not saying that this is acceptable, I am just stating what others have reported to me. My own CG ranges in the 26"-27" range from 0.0" position, as indicated in the plans. My tail was definitely a little on the heavy side, but you can see on earlier pages how I placed a counterbalance above the engine- especially as I did not include things like a starter and the other bits and pieces that total over 65lbs.

I hope this helps.

Jim

RAF56_Ball · 24 April 2012, 06:37 PM

Jim,
is the Dr.1 fuel shut off a push-pull set up, or a quarter rotating tube to the valve on one end the ring on the other? I was trying to figure it out from the pictures.

Jim Bruton · 25 April 2012, 04:54 AM

I used a standard quarter turn fuel valve.

jerrymay · 26 April 2012, 11:23 PM

I have my spar table built and will be ordering some wood here in the next few days. Before I do though I was wondering if anyone knows if I could get a precut rib kit anywhere. I saw in some earlier post that there may have been some available at some point. And while I'm talking kits, is the metal kit still avalable? These items would realy give my project a jump start. Any and all info would be appreciated.

Thanks Jerry

Fritz Kempf · 27 April 2012, 02:20 AM

Jerry, I know one guy who had a water jet company cut the plywood parts of his ribs but that’s it, it wasn’t really a rib kit. If you have someone in your area that does that just bring them the print and I’m sure they could do it for you. Be sure that lay them flat to dry or they will be all messed up. The fitting kit was made by Roger Freeman in TX; he is no longer in the business… I believe there is someone on the forum that has the CAD files he used to cut them but don’t remember who it was. Good luck with your project, hope to see some pictures soon.

Leatherhead · 27 April 2012, 03:28 AM

Hi Jerry,

Yes, the wood kits and metal kits for the Dr.I are still available from the Kingsbury guys (i.e. Roger Freeman). I can help you with that. Please e-mail me at [email protected] and we can talk about it.

Derek

Jim Bruton · 27 April 2012, 04:02 AM

Thanks Derek! This will definitely accelerate Jerry's progress.

All the Best,

Jim

US95Damiani · 27 April 2012, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RAF56_Ball

Jim,
is the Dr.1 fuel shut off a push-pull set up, or a quarter rotating tube to the valve on one end the ring on the other? I was trying to figure it out from the pictures.

Glenn,

If you look through the GAAM pup thread, you'll see how we set ours up.

1/4 turn with a long rod and a handle on the end.

Jim Bruton · 30 April 2012, 05:11 AM

Happy to report that this past weekend I completed both my BFR and tailwheel sign off. Hoping to get a little more tailwheel/dragger time in another aircraft to make sure it all stuck. 37 Take-offs and Landings- whew! I think the CFI may have simply surrendered.

Jim

Bookmaker · 30 April 2012, 05:25 AM

Jim, get all the TW time you can. I am in the TW learning stages as well. I made my first TW solo this last weekend. Although I have several hours (about 15) dual, I did not have access to a plane I could solo. So, I bought a 65 Citabria 7ECA for the main purpose to build TW experience while building my Nieuport.

Even on the flight home with MY plane, I was flying dual. Saturday, however, ended that drought. I took her up for a few laps around the field. It felt a lot like my original solo decades ago. FULL PUCKER.

Again, get all the TW time you can before you jump into the DrI

Dale