DR-1 (Sands): Builders Group - Page 44

Fokker210 · 7 March 2005, 02:24 PM

Joepilot - Give Wick's a call and ask for Karen Scobie. She was Mr. Sands contact there and can provide you with any information you need in reference to the bill of materials. She can send you a detailed parts breakdown and price list.

I actually began with the wing ribs ( I think a lot of others have as well ) just to get a feel for the scope of the entire project - It also gave me a chance to hone my welding skills on some scrap tubing during "rib in the jig" down time!

Keep us all advised on your progress !

Dogtail2 · 8 March 2005, 12:25 AM

Hi all,
Im about to buy a Table saw but they vary in price from £100 to £1800! I assume high price = high accuracy. My question is; how accurate does it have to be? What minimum table saw quality should I go for.

Thanks

wolfenbill · 8 March 2005, 05:05 AM

I don't know what is available in Great Britain but in the United States you can find excellent table saws in the mid-price range, usually $350-$400. They're not top of the line, but fine for what you need. I know a guy here in Houston, Texas who is building a full scale SE-5A with a $150 table saw and it looks just fine. When you think about it, you really aren't "stretching" a table saw to its limits when you build an airplane. Yes, it has to be accurate but the wood is soft and light, the pieces relatively thin compared to heavy oak cabinets or tables. So you don't need very high horsepower either.

Dogtail2 · 8 March 2005, 05:40 AM

Thanks wolfenbill,

I'll go for something mid-range. Some of the more robust looking machines are made of cast iron and heavy. Do you find that you move it around in the workshop much?

hank jarrett · 8 March 2005, 05:44 AM

When it comes to tools it's 80% operator and 20% tool. I have known machinists that could produce absolute pieces of art with two rocks and a cement block. I have screwed up a part on a mega buck 5 axis NC machine. Just make sure the blade runs true, the table is solid and FLAT (heavy cast tables are MUCH better than the "modern" stamped ones. Table extensions are really a great help with larger pieces. I like belt drives (taste) and try and find one with machined blade height and tilt gears. The cast ones don't last as long (mine wore out and stripped after a measly 20 years). A dust collector is nice but feather boards and a good set of push sticks are VITAL. USE THEM! When you are pushing a 1 x ? through the saw to rip longerons the strip can kick back like a spear. A spruce 1 x 1 can go straight through a concrete block. You won't even slow it down. First time it happens to you, assuming you weren't pushing from behind it instead of beside it, you will ruin a good pair of shorts. Be careful and remember the blade guard only protects the manufacturer from lawsuits. It's pretty useless to you.
Hank J

Brad · 8 March 2005, 06:35 AM

Hey Hank... glad you finally made it.

Listen to this guy folks... he has much wisdom!

Dogtail2 · 8 March 2005, 07:42 AM

Thanks Hank,

your info is appreciated. Is it likely that the saw table will need to be moved around the workshop? The more robust machines look almost immovable due to weight.

wolfenbill · 8 March 2005, 01:48 PM

Some manufacturers offer a set of wheels that have levers on them. You push the lever and the wheel goes downward lifting the leg off the ground. Do this three more times and the saw is now mobile. Once you move it to the position you want it you can push the lever again and the wheel retracts allowing the leg to touch the ground. Again, three more times and your machine sits on solid legs. Not all saws allow this.

Hank is right. Also wear eye protection, even though I know of a local Woodcraft shop owner who was blinded in one eye. The wood went through the eye protection (so I am told). Two featherboards are HIGHLY recommended cutting thin strips.

By the way, the SE5A builder uses a small portable table saw. It probably has an 8" blade and can be hand carried to whereever he uses it. I have also seen saws at Home Depot that have some kind of wheels and handles arrangement that allow it to be towed around kind of like flight attendant's luggage.

Don't forget to buy that extra pair of shorts Hank mentions. We all need them at least once.

I use my neighbor's table saw. I have a radial arm saw myself. Don't like to rip with it. It's a kickback king.

kitfoxdave · 8 March 2005, 04:38 PM

I use 1 pair of wheels on my table saw. I lift up on one side of the saw and move it around. Works great and it does not move!

I also changed mine to 220 power from 110. It snaps up to speed right away, does not bog down on 2 inch stock (even hard maple) For cutting narrow strips of expensive spruce, use a thin kerf blade and make your own table insert from plywood and slowly crank the blade up thru it. It does a much better job of supporting the wood while it is cutting.
USE PUSH STICKS! save fingers!

Definately stand aside while cutting! Be very careful of hidden cracks and voids in Douglas Fir and Oak boards! when you hit one it can get far too exciting and the spears it shoots off really earned my respect!

I hope this helps!

Dave

Jim Bruton · 8 March 2005, 06:24 PM

DogTail2,

Cut rough, Sand fine.