DR-1 (Sands): Builders Group - Page 52

joepilot · 22 April 2005, 09:32 PM

Dear Fokker210,

A picture is worth a 1,000 words. How long did it take building the jig? What do you intend to do with your jig after your Fokker is built? Have you thought about marketing your expertise on building the spars for those who are somewhat of a novice? Let me know. joepilot@integrity.com

Please keep the photos coming.

Joepilot
check 6

Fokker210 · 23 April 2005, 05:58 PM

Joepilot,
Many thanks for the kind remarks! The jig took me a couple of weeks to build but I tend to work at a slower pace than some - my son had just been born at the time I was building it so construction took place between diaper changes and trying to learn how to be a Father!

I also work full time so I am sure that people have built their jigs much faster than I did.

As far as any "expertise" goes, you flatter me! I hardly qualify as an expert but do appreciate your comments ! I honestly have never thought of building spars for others especially as I have not completed an entire set yet !
Maybe something to think about down the road!

worldcrusier · 24 April 2005, 09:06 AM

For the forumites comtemplating building but are unsure because they have not built before, I offer a repost of a test I did on a DR1 spar. I had not worked with wood before, not built a plane from scratch (although I restored a Stinson), not made a scarf cut nor ever worked with T-88 epoxy glue. So, I went to a local DIY and selected some fir and located quality 3 ply 1/8" birch to build a test piece. I had built a spar table as detailed in the Sand's plans and constructed a 1/2 spar full scale, just like the plans(well more like Achims plans). Decided to load test my first wood project, and the results were beyond my expectations. As my materials were not A/C quality, I expected failure in my test. I ran out of blocks and the darned thing didn't break. Roughly equal to 8 or 9 G loading. If I can get this close as a first timer, so can anyone.

gnsnow · 24 April 2005, 09:59 AM

Thanks Worldcruiser - that's inspiring!

Dogtail2 · 24 April 2005, 10:42 AM

If anyone is contemplating ordering the wood package offered by Wicks, I would like to warn you that all the plywood(as I have just discovered) is in sheets 48'' by 48'' rendering the Sands 'ply utilisation drawing' useless, as it is based entirely on ply 50'' by 50''

I counted the sheets to see if any extra had been included to make up the shortfall, but no

worldcrusier · 24 April 2005, 10:51 AM

Dogtail2,
Don't worry. I'm also using 48x48 sheets. Your splices may be in slightly different places and you will be choosing different number pieces but so far I'm not having problems. Also, I ended up having to order a couple of extra sheets anyway due to a bit of an oops while cutting. Seems no matter how much extra you get, You'll still be short and have to reorder. I think the 50x50 sheets are actually from (I think??)European suppliers so you might find some over there.

Joepilot,
Took me about a day to build my spar table. A screw gun sure makes things go faster and mistakes are easily fixed.

Dogtail2 · 24 April 2005, 11:51 AM

Thanks worldcruiser,
I didnt have the drawings when I ordered the wood. Too keen! As you say, it shouldnt be too much of a problem, just have to layout slightly differently and buy a little more.

Regarding the spar table, are there any 'tricks' to checking straightness and squareness over a 22' length?
Also, what sort of blade is best for the thin (1/16) ply.

worldcrusier · 24 April 2005, 06:26 PM

As odd as it sounds, the standard Mark I eyeball is pretty good. After I assembled the table I sighted down the length of the table and, using shims, straightened the working top. A string line confirmed the adjustments. Then I went down the length of the table checking across the table with an electronic level to additionally verify the flatness of the table. Note that you should recheck the table every now and then because it will move a little. The blades I've used are a DeWalt 7-1/4", Hollow ground for Plywood, Number DW3326. I've also used a carbide tipped 10" blade with 78 teeth. The 10" has a wider kerf.

Fokker210 · 24 April 2005, 06:42 PM

Guys,
Wicks CAN supply the 50 X 50 sheets but they have to be specifically requested. I have gotten all of my sheets from them with no problem. I always dealt directly with Karen Scobie there but I understand from Jim Bruton that she is no longer there and has been replaced. The new lady was named by Jim in an earlier post - I'm sure they will be able to help you out !

As far as the leveling of the table, for me it was kind of a bear as mine sits diagonally in a 20' garage with a slight slope to the floor - Craftsman makes a great little laser unit for about $35.00 that can be mounted to a tripod and a laser shot down the length. I set mine up in the middle of the jig and it projects a laser down both ends. Like Worldcruiser, I then used an electronic level across the top and shimmed the entire thing to level.

For the saw blades, I have found that the Craftsman 200 tooth veneer blade part # 932264 works like a charm on the thin stuff.

joepilot · 24 April 2005, 06:44 PM

Thanks Fokker210 for the answer. I have been through 4 sons and all 4 knew exactly when to pee as I opened the diaper and they all can poop quite a lot!!!!

All you fathers out there are probably laughing right now. Good luck, you'll need it! Please keep good notes on the building of those spars and let me know if you are considering getting rid of your jig.

Worldcrusier thanks for the heads up. When I get to the "spar" phase you and Fokker210 will be a great resource. Thank You.

I am hoping to order the fuselage "plumbing" soon and begin the welding process.

Joepilot
check 6

"He who sees first, lives longest."