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Replica Aircraft Topics related to the construction of WWI replica aircraft

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Old 23 August 2004, 10:03 AM   #51 (permalink)
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More "out of jiggy"
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Old 23 August 2004, 11:25 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Metz, wow, you make these things look pretty! =-)

I really like the shot with the individual types of ribs- all very helpful. and yes, a clean shop! sounds like you are on your way to learning welding too, like some of the others here (myself incl). as for your flying all over the globe, you will have some fun reading on this forum whenever you come home! (we'll keep the light on for you).

Cheers,

Jim
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Old 23 August 2004, 11:29 AM   #53 (permalink)
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is it me or does it seem that everyone starts with the ribs first? <_<
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Old 23 August 2004, 05:07 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Thanks for the kind words. ..means alot coming from a fellow Fokker builder. Why we all start w/ribs? I guess the old saying; "Great minds think alike" carries some weight!

"metz"
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Old 23 August 2004, 07:13 PM   #55 (permalink)
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"10 Coil Type" Ferrules conquered (I think)

Since I have no success finding a supplier for the ferrules I decided to make them myself. As it is true for most parts of this kind of project it took longer to figure out how than it did to actually make them.

The original ferrules were oval shaped. I tried but I could not replicate that shape. I tried to smash mine in the vise but that did not work either. I know a spring manufacturer could make them (I talked to one) but it was beyond my ability and equipment so mine are round.

The plane spec. 0.078 stainless spring wire. I found 0.080 spring wire at McMaster.com (part #. 89045K45 for one lbs roll or 89045K76 for 5 lbs). I used this for my ferrules but I think you could easily reduce the size to 0.051 without sacrificing strength. I used about 1.5 lbs to make 100 ferrules.

I made the springs in a lathe. I was able to make a spring about 26 inches long each run. I used a 5/32 Tig rod to rap the wire around. This worked well because is was smooth. In the pictures you will see the center rod mounted in the lathe. More pictures in following post.
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Old 23 August 2004, 07:18 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Tig rod in lathe. Shows how I used the tool holder to act as a moving center brace on the long rod.
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Old 23 August 2004, 07:22 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Toi secure the end of the rod and allow it to turn in the drill bit holder I used a small brass tubing over the rod to allow it to turn.
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Old 23 August 2004, 07:26 PM   #58 (permalink)
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I set the lathe at 45 rpm and the tool bit holder unit to move at its fastest speed. The tool bit holder did not move fast enough so I would have to move it by hand every once in a while.

This picture shows the rod through the tool holder into the chuck.
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Old 23 August 2004, 07:32 PM   #59 (permalink)
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This picture shows how nicely the wire coiled to make a spring. Once each run was completed the rod was removed from the chuck and the new spring slid right off. I then marked each 10 coils with a sharpie and cut with a cutoff wheel. I still need to finish grind each end and debur the hole but otherwise I believe they will work.

Total cost is about $50 which was for materials only. Total time to set up the lathe and make and cut over 100 ferrules is about 3 hours.
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Old 23 August 2004, 07:36 PM   #60 (permalink)
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I mentioned McMaster-Carr earlier as a supplier of the stainless steel spring wire. They also carry the small (4-40) blind nuts used to hold the inspection plates on the landing gear wing (around the bungie cords). Their part number is 90975A002.
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