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| Replica Aircraft Topics related to the construction of WWI replica aircraft |
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24 August 2004, 08:34 AM
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#72 (permalink) |
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Forum Ace
Contributor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,070
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Fokker210,
You are right, i am overdue to send some pics. As i am waiting for my wood to arrive, i can only send photos of my jigs, tools and my "space"- promise to do so as soon as i get home today! stay tuned! |
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24 August 2004, 05:34 PM
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#73 (permalink) |
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Forum Ace
Contributor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,070
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Today I scanned in a detailed rudder diagram (DR1, of course!) from the book "Fokker Dr1 Triplane" by Leaman. I scanned it into a massive 1Gig file and then plotted it out in full scale to compare to the rudder template (for bending the tubing) I cut out last night. Pretty much on the money to Sands, though the original seems to be just a tad longer from front to back, but you would probably never notice it.
If anyone wants, I could try and scan this down to a somewhat smaller (so that your RAM can handle it) file and make it available to you- we can FTP it if email can't deliver it and if you really need to, I could perhaps burn and mail to you a CD with the image. I am also going to try the same with the horizontal stabilizer and elevator assembly. I just got my own computer back online after a lightning storm and it is night now- I promise I will have photos for the forum tomorrow evening! |
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24 August 2004, 06:42 PM
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#74 (permalink) |
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Observer
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Greenville IL
Posts: 31
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A couple of days ago I talked with a factory rep/salesman for the Superflite line of finishes and fabric. He told me to varnish the wood with regular gloss oil based varnish. Their fabric adhesive will stick to the varnish without causing any bubbling. They also sell an epoxy primer the metal parts. I believe you can color the primer any color you want.
I am having a little trouble believing you can mix T-88 and varnish and have anything useful when you are done.  If any of you are wanting to use authentic fabric then I would contact Ross Walton to see what is recommended for wood and steel. If you don't have Ross' email address let me know or you can get if from the GWAA web site (www.gwaero.org) |
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25 August 2004, 11:44 AM
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#77 (permalink) |
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Scout Pilot
Contributor
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 303
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The info. that I have on using the T-88 method doesn't involve mixing the T-88 with varnish but rather using Stits Poly Fiber Epoxy Reducer to thin the T-88. The ratio that I have been told of is one part hardener, one part epoxy and one part reducer. Apparently, this makes for a nice varnishy consistency.
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25 August 2004, 03:21 PM
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#78 (permalink) |
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Forum Ace
Contributor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,070
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Well, as promised, here are some shots from my shop.... these are more "mood" shots than anything else, as i am waiting for my materials to show up. still, i am happy to share them with you all!
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| ron bloomquist, group, dr1, builders, sands |
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