My Fokker DVII Project - Page 16

Makhpiyaluta · 9 August 2006, 11:59 AM

Jeff,

Here some photos of our landinggearwing.

The little cutout on the top is to give room for the brake caliper and we didn't use those pull catch fasteners. I have it taken of today and will make photos of the inside saturday. I hope it is to any help for you.

Willem

scott5952 · 9 August 2006, 01:03 PM

I have to totally agree with Maxim here. 6061 T6 is a B_tch to bend and it cracks pretty easily during the forming process.

While 2024 is a little more prone to corrosion then 6061, it is still very stable. Corrosion becomes a big issue with 7075, but 2024 is a good bet.

If it were me, I would do it in 2024 T3. If it was too hard to bend, then I would use 2024 0 and then have it heat treated to T4.

Sorry Jeff.. I know too many opinions make it hard to decide! If you want I would be happy to talk to you offline about it – just email me.

Scott

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxim08

Brad,
I agree re the 6061 but not necessarily about the T6. The 'T' refrers to the heat treatment stage of the alloy. 6061 will work harden. In the T6 stage, it can be bent but you must be careful to use a radius of at least 6x the thickness or it will crack. 6061 is also available 'alclad' for corrosion resistance.
I suggest that 2024 T3 alclad is the best bet here. It can be worked reasonably well and a tighter radius can be used. I believe that 2024 T3 is what the Dr1 guys are using for their axle boxes.

Jeff,
How can I refuse?
I'll be in Buffalo Saturday AM to collect my lozenge linen from UPS. Any chance of meeting up? Any other forum people nearby that would like to get together for breakfast/lunch and talk WW1 stuff?

Regards,
Maxim08

Von Writter · 9 August 2006, 01:14 PM

Hi Willem, The brakes look great, May I ask whay you used for a rotor and caliper? The caliper looks like a AC type but what is the rotor off of?
Thanks a bunch;
Troy W.

Jeff Brooks · 9 August 2006, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxim08

Brad,
I agree re the 6061 but not necessarily about the T6. The 'T' refrers to the heat treatment stage of the alloy. 6061 will work harden. In the T6 stage, it can be bent but you must be careful to use a radius of at least 6x the thickness or it will crack. 6061 is also available 'alclad' for corrosion resistance.
I suggest that 2024 T3 alclad is the best bet here. It can be worked reasonably well and a tighter radius can be used. I believe that 2024 T3 is what the Dr1 guys are using for their axle boxes.

Jeff,
How can I refuse?
I'll be in Buffalo Saturday AM to collect my lozenge linen from UPS. Any chance of meeting up? Any other forum people nearby that would like to get together for breakfast/lunch and talk WW1 stuff?

Regards,
Maxim08

I'd love to meet up with you ... but I have plans for the next week! vacation! how can I relax knowing I CAN'T WORK ON THE PLANE?!?
I just picked up some T-88, and I am going to make some more fairing ribs. I figure that if you are going to make yours like the Knowington aircraft, you can complete the fairig the way you want. I'll cut the 2 outside rib shape in 1/8" ply & build 4 inner ribs for you and you can do the final assembly to your specs. how does that sound?
I just got the plans that Jim Burton sent me (Thanks Jim!!!). The inside of the fairing on the Dr1 look like they will work better. but it appears they do not separate like the DVII. still the stringers look like they will accomodate the cut down the centerline of the axle.
more research!!

Jeff Brooks · 9 August 2006, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scott5952

I have to totally agree with Maxim here. 6061 T6 is a B_tch to bend and it cracks pretty easily during the forming process.

While 2024 is a little more prone to corrosion then 6061, it is still very stable. Corrosion becomes a big issue with 7075, but 2024 is a good bet.

If it were me, I would do it in 2024 T3. If it was too hard to bend, then I would use 2024 0 and then have it heat treated to T4.

Sorry Jeff.. I know too many opinions make it hard to decide! If you want I would be happy to talk to you offline about it – just email me.

Scott

I appreciate your input input!!!! this has been a great learning experience for me. I am lucking I have a group of professional aircraft mechanics at work who guide me. All the inout I get from the forum has been very helpful! I don't know what I don't know till someone makes a comment and helps me discover that I need to research it more!

Jeff Brooks · 9 August 2006, 08:43 PM

Makhpiyaluta,
your pictures are great! and very helpful. I like your alternative to those attaching brackets! I have been dreading what I am going to pay to get those machined!!! your method looks great!
pictures of the inside will be very helpful!! I like the breaks too ... do you think hiding the break lines inside the streamline tube will weaken the landing gear? that way you could hide the flexible hose inside the fairing too!
tell me about the fabric over the wood. is that doped over the ply or just stretched over?

Jim Bruton · 10 August 2006, 03:26 AM

Glad to help Jeff. We look forward to your final decision on how to proceed.

Best,

Jim

Brad · 10 August 2006, 07:46 AM

Makhpiyaluta,

Beautiful! Nice job on the brakes, very unobtrusive. Accuracy (authenticity) is nice, but for a flying aircraft some modern compromises are needed... that's a really good job of hiding most of it.

Brad

Von Writter · 10 August 2006, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff Brooks

Makhpiyaluta,
your pictures are great! and very helpful. I like your alternative to those attaching brackets! I have been dreading what I am going to pay to get those machined!!! your method looks great!
pictures of the inside will be very helpful!! I like the breaks too ... do you think hiding the break lines inside the streamline tube will weaken the landing gear? that way you could hide the flexible hose inside the fairing too!
tell me about the fabric over the wood. is that doped over the ply or just stretched over?

Hey Jeff, I'd be very careful about opening up (drilling) the gear legs as the holes will open a path for moisture and the subsiquent rust and failure of the gear! I plan to mount my bracket for the calliper under the wing 180deg from the one shown in the picture. That way the bracket and hose will be hidden for the most part.
Regards;
Troy W.

Makhpiyaluta · 10 August 2006, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Von Writter

Hi Willem, The brakes look great, May I ask whay you used for a rotor and caliper? The caliper looks like a AC type but what is the rotor off of?
Thanks a bunch;
Troy W.

Troy,

What do you mean by the rotor

Willem