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Replica Aircraft Topics related to the construction of WWI replica aircraft



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Old 28 February 2007, 08:21 AM   #471 (permalink)
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I use the body hammers I bought from Aircraft Spruce and smoothed the aluminum ...
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I occasionally put it back into the jig to ensure I didn't loose the correct shape.
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Old 28 February 2007, 08:25 AM   #472 (permalink)
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Next I use the smaller wooden jig to fold the outside edge underneath.
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I use the Vise as an anvil, I should buy a real anvil as they are smoother and don't leave markes in the metal being worked.
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Old 28 February 2007, 08:29 AM   #473 (permalink)
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Once I have gotten the outside smooth with lots of little taps & it looks good enough to go on, I put it back into the wooden jig and shrink the inside ...
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This also take a lot of time to prevent tearing the aluminum.
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Old 28 February 2007, 08:31 AM   #474 (permalink)
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Then I pull it out of the jig and make small adjustments and polish it with steel wool.
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Old 28 February 2007, 10:39 AM   #475 (permalink)
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Skills

Jeff,

Well done and perfectly presented. It is great to see your skills develop and it gives us hope for ourselves. Thanks for teaching us.

observing,

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The FE.2b is so ugly that it is beautiful. A versatile workhorse! Fighter, reconnaissance, bomber, came in pc.10 or black colors, a choice of undercarriages, lots of guns, a great view from the front seat, and if I had one it would be easy to find in a crowded parking lot.
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Old 28 February 2007, 11:53 AM   #476 (permalink)
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Fee2b,
thanks
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Old 28 February 2007, 10:05 PM   #477 (permalink)
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Chutes

Jeff, Have you ever considered cutting the sides, inside and outside as separate pieces with only about a 1/4" flange and then Alumiweld them together?

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Old 1 March 2007, 02:03 AM   #478 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bookmaker View Post
Jeff, Have you ever considered cutting the sides, inside and outside as separate pieces with only about a 1/4" flange and then Alumiweld them together?

Dale
I have limited welding experiance for this method. besides I suspect the originals were stamped anyway. so if I were t try another method, it would be to develop a stamp.
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Old 1 March 2007, 06:01 AM   #479 (permalink)
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I fully understand your position.

By the way, "Alumiweld" is a relatively low temperature "welding" system for aluminum and other non ferrous metals that uses a "hot" propane torch and the special "alumiweld" sticks. I guess it is not really "welding" as there is no melting of the parts you are mating together. You can "weld" anything from aluminum soda cans to cast aluminum forgings.

I would not consider it on a structural part, but if you have never used this stuff, you should check it out. It's great stuff.

http://www.alumiweld.com/

I have been following your thread. Nice work.

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Old 9 March 2007, 01:28 PM   #480 (permalink)
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9 Mar 07

I worked on the engine mounts today. I had to call Roger Freeman for help! He has built a few Fokker DVIIs, and he sent me a picture of how he solved the problem with the Fairchild bushing issue. He made his own bushings that were not effected by inverting the mount. Here is the picture ...
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I ordered from McMaster Carr a solid bar stock of Polyurethane rubber. The online catalog doesn't allow you to get it wrong. It askes how much strength, temperature and purpose you need and the right stuff turns up! Nice catalog!
Here is the bar stock and the pieces I turned on a lathe ...
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Here is the mount with the bushing installed. I have to make new brackets so the bolts that hold the clamps are not chaffing the rubber, and I have to order new AN bolts for a slightly longer size. I will also add a piece of tubing inside the bushing to limit how much it gets compressed. Oh, and I need bigger washers!
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